- This topic has 63 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 10 months ago by assistant to were-rabbit.
30 December 2007 at 12:00 AM #5888Jim TruscottGuest
Get out of bed early to prevent having to queue on the back wall for this one. A diet lacking in red meat and alcohol can lead to uncertainty and pretence in the face of carrots
Carroterrorism 30m 23.425
The playstation just to the left of LOTD with five acts and no half-way house. Act 1; eat plenty of baby carrots and scheme to get your wife on the warpath. Act 2; climb the bulging wall with lubra lips precision and positive, high thoughts. Act 3; surmount the awkward block and low traverse up the ramp. Act 4; ascend the overhanging wall with much determination and nervous energy. Retain the energy necessary to rip off a sprayed on condom for the move up to the last clip. Act 5; take the train to Mandurah, hoot, hoot. 10BR to DBB. M Rosser, D. Zonta 30 Dec 0730 December 2007 at 12:00 AM #5889BlairKeymaster
Good work on putting up a new climb guys. Maybe a change of vegetables are in order, from carrots to pees maybe?31 December 2007 at 12:00 AM #5890Matt RosserKeymaster1 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5891awe inspired rad guyKeymaster
wow!! thats amazing, what a climb! and now when i go to you tube and watch world class climbers on world class routes i can also watch some grainy footage of a budget class chipped route equipped with carrot bolts!! brilliant!! how did you manage to find so much money to buy the computers, modems, handy cams, drills, harness, ropes, cars and still not find enough to place decent bolts!! brilliant
that anyone still does this….1 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5892ElliotKeymaster
I love how you didn’t use your name with that post.
You’re all class.2 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5893Jeff MKeymaster
I will use my name, I agree with the other guys, time to retire the whole carrot bolt mindset. If you are creating a sport route use some kind of ring or P, if the area is sensitive use GIMB’s or paint whatever sort of ring you use to blend in. If it is a Mixed route, then I can certainly see a place for a heap of GIMB’s. I mean if you are going to have to lock in one spot to place gear you can do the same to place a hanger right?
But here is the overall point, CARROTS ARE CRAP! You guys seem willing to spend heaps of cash on some things then skimp on others. If you do not have the funds to put decent bolts in all of the many routes you guys put up, then how about putting up less climbs and make them of better quality?3 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5894ed nepiaKeymaster
good one putting up another new route, but heres a question for you.. if a route has to be chipped for you to climb it can I re-chip it to make sure I can climb it?
seems fair…3 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5895a wombat (one of many)Keymaster
… try that on punks in the gym at araps and see what happens….or hang ten or urban ethics or chips and dips or sweetpea etc etc or any of the perth “classics”3 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5896ed nepiaKeymaster
oh i get it .. its ok to chip a route to suit the first ascentionest only… righto that makes perfect sense
its a wierd world alright
so how about filling in holds that have been chipped then doing the route?3 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5897NeilKeymaster
hasn’t this been covered like a squillion times before on this website?
hi to all the wombats out there 😛3 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5898ed nepiaKeymaster
yes i can see how outrageously busy this site is ….. errrrr ummmmm3 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5899the judgeKeymaster
chipping routes is bullshit, why not just drill a hole and put a climbing hold on the rock or glue one on its the the same bullshit. if you are chipping routes to make a new one then people should be able to fill them in or chip them more to make it climable for them. personally i think if you are chipping routes you are a useless wanker.4 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5900KrisKeymaster
Chip, glue, carrot, do whatever the hell you like in the quarries. They are fake environments and i personally couldn’t give a rats what goes on in there. Soon the CAWA / DEC nazis will probably ban us from going in there anyway.
However, no way in hell should chipping, glueing etc occur on natural crags. Anyone seen the appauling chip job done at Gracetown? You are a tosser whoever it was.
Matt, Jim, do i detect some baiting going on with your last few climbs??
All named after those poxey carrots you insist on using. Good onya for putting up the climb, pity you ruin your good work with outdated, dangerous equipment.
Happy 08 everyone4 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5901ed nepiaKeymaster
‘carroterrorism’, ‘year of the carrot’, ‘triumph of the carrot’, ‘carrots for rabbits’
yep real funny cutting edge names
so actually the use of carrots is an anarchistic, subversive counterculture.. how daring, how noble… that’ll really show those wimpy, losers with their bombproof glue-in bolts
and when some unfortunate , unsuspecting climber decks after one of the carrots pulls we’ll all get the joke
haha4 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5902MarianneKeymaster
I’ve had the good fortune to climb recently in Spain (sports), the UK (trad) and Thailand (sports). Because I started climbing (properly) in Perth I didn’t really think anything of carrots..a climb was a climb. I’ve got to admit though that watching my technique improve out of sight on sports climbs, and testing my nerves on trad climbs are the most satisfying types of climbing for me 🙂
p.s. It’d be interesting to see what happened if anyone tried to put up a carrot climb in Thailand!4 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5903veganKeymaster
i like carrots, especially juiced or cut thinly in stir fry with lashings of ginger and soy
i am therefore surprised to see that anyone would use these noble vegetables for protecting a rock climb
surely the climbing world has moved on from the bash in bolt era?
liberate the carrot! return the carrot to its rightful place on the table of the nation and off the cliff!!4 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5904THE JUDGEKeymaster
i wonder if these idiots who are actualy putting in carrots can be held responsible for their actions should some unfortunate person die from climbing their chipped and carrotted climb.4 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5905ShannonKeymaster
I doubt it coz you climb at your own risk.
Though with the whole new DEC system coming in, with people having to book to be in some quarries, you think they would insist on a certain standard of bolting to be used.
Lets face it, the cost of decent anchors is not that high so there is really no reason to continue with such an outdated practice as bashing in carrots eh?5 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5906NeilKeymaster
…so donate some money or bolts to the rebolting fund / safer cliffs wa.
FYI bolting is expensive.
glue in p-bolts cost $4.95 and then you have to buy glue (approx $2 per bolt), drill bits ($0.50 per bolt), glue nozzles and hole brushes ($10each).
so for one glue in p-bolt the cost is easily $8 per bolt.
for an expansion bolt it is around $4 for the hanger and $3.50 for the bolt.
so including drill bits etc the cost is easily $8 a bolt once again.
if you don’t believe me look at:
and this assumes you can get the following free: a drill, static rope, an old harness – because your new slinky one will be shagged from glueing, a grigri, jumar etc etc.
FYI…. the cost of a carrot is less than $1.
i am happy to rebolt anyone’s favorite carrot route. no questions asked. you just have to cough up the $$.
for people’s info, there are plans to do some rebolting at bob’s hollow on australia day. so if you’re keen to help or see whats going on come along and sticky beak.5 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5907ShannonKeymaster
Um I do donate to the rebolting fund, I also know how much it costs to bolt. I donate money in the jars so unsafe or worn bolts can be replaced, Why should the money I donate go to rebolting climbs that should be done properly in the first place?
Also when you tell me how much it costs to drill one type of bolt versus the other, you can leave out the drill, drill bit, harness, rope and all the other stuff that people placing carrots already have. Yes decent bolts cost a bit more but it is not astronomical, And it will save you having to waste perfectly good rebolting funds. Carrots were the norm back in the dark ages but most of us have come a long way since.5 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5908ed nepiaKeymaster
i totally agree with shannon, and Neil $8/bolt is bloody reasonable given they should have a lifespan of decades (at least)
if the cost of good bolts is too much then developers should not use a cheap, unsafe alternative instead they should leave the route undeveloped till someone else is prepared to do the job right (first time)
the guys putting up these routes obviously have lots of good energy to put into developing routes and should be thanked for that, but by failing to follow best practice and place the best possible permanent anchors they could, they do themselves and the climbing community as a whole a disservice
its taking the piss especially with the choice of route names…7 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5909richardKeymaster
If you don’t like carrots then don’t climb on them. If you really don’t like carrots then replace them with gluein hex-heads. If you really don’t like carrots and you want to whinge then replace them and whinge. If you just want to whinge then talk about Brittney Spears.7 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5910ed nepiaKeymaster
thank you for that helpful message… sorry you missed the point
‘whingeing’ about carrots is a reasonable response to some deliberately provocative ‘public boasting’ about carrots.
No one has bagged these guys for their positive energy in developing new routes, good on them
But the continued practice of using unsafe and outdated bolting technology is being challenged. Bolted routes should always have the best possible protection (cause there arent any other options) That dosnt mean having bolts every metre but it means that any bolt you do clip should be as strong as practical.
Back in the days of hand drills and limited technological knowhow carrot bolts where the accepted norm (at least in australia) but times have changed (in most places) and carrot bolts have now been abandoned for superior equipment.
Why ANYONE thinks its ok to keep using carrots is completly bewildering, and why some of you still think its ok is even wierder.
And yes i could replace them with GIMB or expansion bolts but why should I bother? If these guys placed decent gear in the first place no one would have to waste their time and money fixing up a mess, and we wouldnt be having these discussions7 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5911richardKeymaster
Not aimed specifically at you Ed. The point is everyone’s free to do almost anything. If we don’t like what the pioneers do we’re free to ignore the climb or change the bolts. Using a high moral tone to get someone else to do work is only occasionaly effective.7 January 2008 at 12:00 AM #5912ed nepiaKeymaster
ok and what would be more effective?