Home Forums First Ascents 2 new routes at Mountain Quarry

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  • #111700 Reply
    Jonas
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    Playmate 16m 22**
    Located 10m right of ‘Playboy’ and 6m up the slope, climb the blast hole to a juggy ledge. Continue up and over the fault line with a tricky move then follow the bolts on the second wall to the finish. 6RB to DBB. Use a sling on the 4th RB to reduce rope drag. Oliver Morell and Jonas Hollingworth – Oct 13

    Playmate Direct 16m 21**
    Climb as per ‘Playmate’ using the same bolts however after the blast hole clip high then go right, under the roof, around and up onto the slab to rejoin the route and finish. Jonas Hollingworth and Oliver Morell – Oct 13

    The belay ledge at the base of the route is quite small and more precarious than it looks however the first clip is easy to make after which you’ll feel more secure. Otherwise you can place a small cam just above the ledge or just belay from the bottom of the ramp.

    Also, I knocked off 2 x massive 1 – 2 ton boulders with relative ease when cleaning this route which are now lying some meters from the base of the cliff. Its perhaps something to consider next time you’re looking for a parking spot in a quarry! Hope you enjoy, please let us know what you think.

    #111705 Reply
    Richard
    Guest

    Very interesting climb. Beyond me but F led up to the headwall, which for some may be the crux. PD may not be easier. looks like some thoughtful moves

    #111707 Reply
    Francis
    Guest

    One of the more interesting climbs I have done at Mnt Q. The drill hole is a bit sharp, use with care. I particularly like the rather unnerving traverse along the fault, I think many will lose balance and topple here unless they find the small side pull for the right hand up high.

    Solid for the grade but I think its 21 and I highly recommend it, well done on the safe bolting and uncovering a nice line. I am yet to try Playmate direct 🙂

    #111747 Reply
    Jonas
    Guest

    Glad you liked it. Could be a grade 21 but sounds like you may have taken a slightly different path above the blast hole which maybe a bit easier. We went up from the ledge, left of the bolt, rather than traversing as you’ve described.

    Playmate Direct looks harder but we both thought it was a grade lower although, like Playmate, there’s a trick to the move making them both difficult onsights. I’ll let you problem solve that one. I’m keen to hear other comments on the grade and Playmate Direct.

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