Home Forums First Ascents A couple of new routes at West Cape Howe

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    Here’s two new routes in the Rafts area at WCH. Only the first pitches (shown in photo) are the new bits. I don’t think these have been done before as I can’t find any reference to them and I cleaned off a bit of obvious loose rock however you never know with trad routes. Opinions of the grades etc. welcome.

    The thin crack at the top of Epitaph is the good bit and eats small cams from #000 to #2. The crack also stays pretty dry when the rock everywhere else is wet and its gets the sun from early to mid afternoon.

    To access scramble down the easiest route from the ‘Vulture St’ area to a wide ledge and walk across to the obvious opening in the rock. An anchor here for the belayer may be required.

    Epitaph 65m 22***
    Pitch 1, 30m 22. Go up trending left for 15m over some cruisey terrain to a short traverse before continuing up to the base of a thin crack. Up the thin crack onto the ‘Tombstone’ ledge. Small cams in the crack. Jonas Hollingworth – 01 Jun 14
    Pitch 2. Finish as per final pitch on ‘Tombstone’.

    Thank God I’m An Atheist 68m 18
    Pitch 1, 33m 18. A variation avoiding the thin crack on ‘Epitaph’. From the thin crack continue left to another vertical crack leading to the ‘Tombstone’ ledge. Jonas Hollingworth – 01 Jun 14
    Pitch 2. Same as pitch 2 above.

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