Home Forums First Ascents A wee bit of fun on the Black Wall at Stathams

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    Ang
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    There is a thin crack running between Penthouse/Left Edge and Aerobics with Alan that is an entertaining exercise in placing tiny gear and minor runouts. There doesn’t seem to be a write up on it, and is probably a solo from the 60s/70s or one of those lines that have periodically been done but not written up. Does anyone know its history? We climbed it for a laugh at the end of a session.
    Start up as for PH. Clipping the first bolt might be a good idea, if only to lessen the chance of unzipping. Head slightly right on to the crack and merrily fiddle about with micro nuts, RPs and small nuts and cams while perched on the numerous edges. Follow the crack all the way up until it peters out, then continue straight up the face and top out pretty much where LE goes. Belay off the small trees on top. Watch out for the dead ones.
    Easy climbing, somewhere about 12-14, with the little gear keeping the interest up. If it doesn’t already have a name, Smallminded. Comments on grade? A Separovic and R Wainright 2014

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    Ang
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    D’oh! Seniors moment. This is at MOUNTAIN quarry, not Stathams. Was reading the guide about something in Stathams beforehand.

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