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  • #7680 Reply
    ed nepia

    thanks very much for reviewing the ACZ, excellent news!

    #7681 Reply
    Brett D.

    Right, now that pesky ACZ is out of the way, lets hear the truth about some of the recent pieces of stainless steel that have been popping up at certain South Coast cliffs.

    From up here on the ‘roof’ of WA, I can hear the shuffling of heavy packs, charging of drills & idling of small trendy AWD’s as a south coast stampede looms…

    After the juxtaposition of recently wandering up a sparsely bolted ‘wilderness’ crag on the said coast & casting eyes on the new P-bolt attrocities at Darlington that made my boltcutter arm twitchy, I implore the the brigades from the ‘burbs to treat our wild coast with the respect it deserves….

    #7682 Reply

    Weird how two peoples nature reserve is still in the Adventure Climbing Zone, when there are comments clearly stating that it has issues regarding the Noisy scrub bird and Dieback.

    So its clearly fine too traditionally climb in such an area, but not too add mixed/bolted routes. What difference does a few bolts make, when the real issue seem too be access. After all Albany climbers have been climbing routes in at Cape Vancouver for the last decade!.

    WHy havnt CAWA attempted to resolve access issues, as climbers are still going in there regardless.

    BUt i guess CAWA are still dining out on saving Wallcliffe and getting Canning DAm.

    #7683 Reply

    You answered your own question in the first sentence.

    #7684 Reply

    How so Ross??

    So adventure climbing doesn’t affect the Noisy scrub bird and dieback.

    please explain

    #7685 Reply

    Nah, you offended me with your last sentence. Get lost.

    #7686 Reply
    get it out there

    without much fanfare the new routes on peak head from mark thake et al on peak head has been published on this site


    on ya boys!

    #10144 Reply
    Scott Fielding

    To me a strong head will always be more impressive than a line of `shiny devils` every time.


    Wonder how many of the guys putting up new routes have climbed even 80% of the existing routes (at their grade limit) down around Albany/West Cape Howe? My guess in none. ACZ arguments aside I will never comprehend the compulsion behind people putting up new routes when they have not even climbed most of what is already on offer?

    Nothing like your name beside a new route in a guide book huh? Sweet sauce for the ego in need?

    Brett D, I hear you mate but sadly as soon as the line of thought is `bolts are approved here now` it is like opening a flood gate. It is a one way journey to a mindset of `access for all` from which there is no return.

    Are bolts bad? The answer to this depends on a long list of variables.

    Is grid bolting in areas like the south west bad? In my opinion – yes it is bad. Why. Well it is all about context.



    #10155 Reply

    since when has putting up new routes had anything to do with the fact that the FA declared “ohh hum! ive done everything at the crag, at my limit, its time to pull out captain ryobi and grid bolt some clip ups” !!. If you had a clue about how much work, time and money has gone into each and every route, then you would realise it is far easier to just go round repeating climbs(over and over again) that other people have put up.

    Sure!, it is totally about Context!. In this situation some people are actually keen for a different adventure, which involves imagination, hard work, time , money, blood, sweat and a great laugh!. With the end goal being a creation that people have the choice to challenge themselves on or not!!, as it sounds in your case Scott!.Most of these crags are not very consumer friendly.

    Are bolts Bad!?. If used in excess and without need “Yes”. But scott, have you actually had a look at any of the new routes on peak head, i think youll find they are far from being gridbolted and a very worthy addition to the variety of the area. In fact if you can find me any routes/crags that are grid bolted (not just bolted like many other crags in the state) i will pull the bolts out myself.

    Shiny devils!! so you never clip bolts?.

    #10226 Reply
    ed nepia

    Hey Scott,

    times change eh. trad routes generally follow features that offer trad placements … make sense eh. Most of the new routes on peak head have some trad placements (as described in the excellent mini guide ) . I think you’l find that if you get off your high horse and get on some of the new routes at peak head that wherever possible trad placements are used and where not they are sparingly bolted. As a consequence of the intelligent development that Messrs Thake et al have practised you can now enjoy some stunning modern classics on superb rock, on wild lines. Arnaud petit does a nice job of climbing Black Bean on gear, all very good, however note that he dosnt bitch about the bolts. I look forward to the youtube clip of you doing a similar effort on the new routes on peak head.

    I wonder how many of these new routes you have tried? Maybe you should get on them and then comment eh…

    Its a real shame that your willing to bag the efforts of a small group of very talented climbers and developers who are making a huge contribution to the future of WA climbing. They have a very high standard of ability and ethics and in my view should be congratulated for putting in a huge amount of effort, sweat, money and vision …

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