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New years day Scott Boladeras and I aided the direct line up the main wall on the left side of the throne room at West Cape Howe. The crack goes directly up for about 80 to 90 meters through several roof cracks. It was done all on reasonably straight forward clean aid with only minor free climbing. We did it in 6 pitches due to drag from the all the roofs. It was quite a commiting adventurous outing and will be a testpiece free route at ~26/27? We have placed bolted anchors before and after the first major roof so people can bail and to make things user friendly as i am working a variant in this roof that hopefully people will jump on as a seperate single pitch route.
Grading aid like this is a bit tricky but A1/A2 with oblig. 20? is probably close. We have named the route Zeus.
thanks logan good to see
…having clarified some mysteries about the acz 🙂
feel free to try the new roof crack route underneath the natural bridge at the gap cameron and I equipped with carrots! they’re totally invisible from the viewing platform!
🙂
again keep up the good work and lets see the single pitch line you mentioned free soon huh?
Cheers Tom,
May get down that way on the aussie day long weekend to get back on the proj at wch.
Underneath the natural bridge sounds like a great route!
Nat Bridge is in the ACZ. Once I find out Tom’s personal details, they will be forwarded to the relevant DEC Ranger for follow-up.
Whats the ACZ? Is that CAWA code for something?
Last month we followed Logan and Scott down to Throne of the Gods to look at Zeus, An incredible climb. It’s worth scrambling down just to look at it. It must be the most spectacular wall in the state. Constructing an ascent through 100m of roofs and overhangs is an achievement.
And don’t be too mad at Ross. He has good days too.
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=20150&Replies=103
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=683&Replies=0
http://www.nkz.tourism.ru/grading2.htm
I notice that Logan uses US grades, I guess because he aided there so this makes sense. We have an Aus scale for this though. Above links give some guidance on Aus “Mechanical” grades eg M1, M2, M3….. We tend to use these here instead of the yank grades A0, A1, A2 ….. The first link gives translations, cut/pasted below….with my commentary added (I’ve done a few walls in Yosemite). There are some M graded climbs at WCH now so I suggest we stick to the M scale, although opinions on this differ, as per threads.
Not to be confused with the M “mixed” grades (ice/rock) which do not exist in Oz for obvious reasons.
USA Australian
A0 = M1 pulling on bolts
A1 = M1 trad gear, easily arranged (The Nose)
A2 = M2 trad gear, can be difficult to arrange
A2+ = M3
A3 = M4 some hooks and copperheads, safe (Tangerine Trip)
A3+ = M5 this grade and higher reflect worse gear and higher injury potential….I have not done this.
A4 = M6
A4+ = M7
A5 = M8
A6 = M9 (theoretical) if you fall, you will likely die
sorry ross i didn’t mean to get a bite
but hey its interesting under the bridge there – man so many carrots you would never believe how many bolts have been placed there! and on cracks too. reminds me of france…
..yes, I am an idiot….
Take care under that bridge Tom I have lost a good friend in that area on a so called calm day getting dragged over those barnacles will slice through any rope.my mate coby is a skipper at air sea rescue and his body recovery stories still chill me to the bone.climb safe bro ..
