Home Forums First Ascents Another route at Gibraltar Rock, following on from Dinosaur

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  • #111999 Reply
    Ang
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    Dinosaur Jr, about a 16/17, 40m starting from Dinosaur ledge, grade and length TBC
    Head up the first pitch of Dinosaur (18) to the ledge, then up 3 fixed hangers and trend left to the clear overlap/open crack line for a DDB (fixed hangers). Continue up the crack line for another 3 (I think…) fixed hangers, then move right on to a big ramp for a nice largish gear placement on a long sling. Skirt up past the vegetation (ideally without stepping on the slippery leaves) for one more fixed hanger and on to the second DBB (with rings). For now, if you are bold enough run it out, otherwise rap straight down from the anchors about 40m on double ropes. Mixed trad and sport. T Ball and A Separovic Nov 2013

    #112028 Reply
    Ang
    Guest

    BTW, this route moves in the opposite direction to the existing Dinosaur line and is not a retro bolt in any way. The existing line moves right, this line moves left, and when rapping down you end up well left of the start of Dinosaur. There are future plans to add another pitch to Dino Jnr so there will be no need to haul an extra rope.

    #112034 Reply
    Neil
    Guest

    Nice to see new routes.

    Are you sure the upper bit of this isn’t a retro of Dockyard Wall’s upper pitch(es) ?
    It’s pretty hard to tell from the description. It kind of sounds like it but I did Dockyard Wall 15years ago. Mike Smith was pretty freaking hard so don’t assume he went the easy way. He would have gone the good way for sure.

    When is the mini guide coming out for all these new routes ?

    Pretty sure Raven is in part a retrobolt of Main Street for more than a trivial amount. Oh well.

    #112044 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    When Jim nevin and I mapped out raven we took great pains not to follow any routes we knew it crossed possum and told first accentionist Ron master and his father and spaced the bolts accordingly in that section as not to disturb the flow of that route.jim being the oldest and crustiest of us knows those upper pitches better than most and is sure it is a new line.I think it’s not that clear near the top and 6 lines top out within meters of each other but in keeping with local ethics if you still feel it shares the same ground as mainstreet tell me what bit and I will move them.

    #112054 Reply
    Neil
    Guest

    Sorry for the thread highjack.

    Just politely John, I do think Raven and Main Street share a lot of rock. If you look in both my mini-guide and the old CAWA guide it shows Main Street passing the series of caves and both routes certainly exit the final cave on the right. At the start of Main Street the description says stay 6m right of the reed filled crack. This is more or less where raven goes – up the crack with a bolt or 2….. It is likely Main Street starts the same as Raven as this is the best line up to the caves and offers some token pro. This would have been attractive back in the day. Raven, if I remember skirts around the bottom of the first 2 (?) caves while Mainstreet hops in and out of them, but then the lines join at the final cave and exit the same.

    Anywaaaaaaaaaaay. It’s a lot of work to remove bolts; especially if they are your own ! Everyone seems to like Raven, which is good. Worst case if it is a bit of a retro, it can probably be left alone as I doubt Main Street has any suitors at all. Dockyard wall however…. needs to be left unmolested as it is a true WA classic experience.

    I think all the new stuff is great, but lets just be carefull as it is not always obvious where the old routes go. The descriptions can be vague and the guidebooks have plenty of (sometimes big) errors.

    #112066 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    Cheers Neil but I think you may have your caves mixed up main street starts at a slab not crack and aims at the first cave then links all 3 caves then exits on the right then up to top .Raven starts at that crack and aims at the second cave the only one it hits. a good spot for lunch then straight up.we wanted to put up a well protected line everyone could enjoy and stoked that it is getting traffic the locals put a lot of work in .your right about dockyard wall we have allways left that area alone out of respect.

    #112069 Reply
    Ang
    Guest

    @ Neil
    No, I can’t be absolutely certain it’s a retro of Dockyard’s upper pitches but as you pointed out descriptions and guidebooks aren’t always helpful. Climb it and decide for yourself, and let us know. Perhaps issue a ‘clarifications’ guide to correct unclear and plain wrong descriptions/topos? I don’t believe there was any intention to retro bolt and steal old lines.
    As for the mini-guide, there isn’t one currently and possibly may never be (here’s hoping I’m wrong about that one). IMHO the person putting up the new stuff is sick of the crap and trolling that comes out of the woodwork when stuff is posted. Constructive criticism is fine, welcomed and much needed but that isn’t what often comes up.
    Highjack away 🙂

    #112072 Reply
    Richard
    Guest

    From the description sounds the rap-off point is on the line of DW, if not slightly below (if you can reach the ground in 40m I wouldn’t have thought you’re near the upper pitches of DW). Did DW a year or two ago with the Beer Monster. Who acquitted herself really well on the massive, uprotected traverse, while I sat in the cave staring at the single old belay bolt waiting for the 30m mother-of-two pendulum. The upper pitches had some degree of spacy run-out quality, otherwise a bit tedious. Would take away a star.
    Maybe supply some Dino Jr photo topos so the Porongorups guide can be updated.

    #112101 Reply
    Neil
    Guest

    @ John
    Fair enough, so it doesn’t share as many caves as I thought  Do you know anyone who has done Bjorn/Jim’s route Zepplin ?

    @ Ang and Tim
    If you are not sure where Dockyard Wall goes, I kindly suggest you figure out where it does before you bolt anything else that may share similar ground. Retrobolting is not just placing bolts on an existing line. It is also placing bolts “near” an existing line that may negatively influence the climbing experience or character of the original route. This is a little vague as it depends a lot on the route / crag. E.g quarry clip ups can have neighbours as little as 1m away and I expect it would be fine. However something like Dockyard Wall is a fairly special experience in WA climbing and a lot of that comes from climbing alone in a sea of granite with no options to scamper 1m or even up to 10m either side to clip or escape to a bolt on another route. As eluded to by some of the locals and others who have climbed the route – it deserves some (considerable) respect. Please ensure your activities keep this in mind as a very high priority. Given the cluster that occurred at Peak Head I would have expected some sensitivity to these issues.

    Apologies if this comes across harsh or like a troll as sometimes it’s hard to get the right emotion across on the internet. But I guess myself and some others are a bit worried. The West Face of Peak Head is one of the most special places in WA climbing. Indeed bolting was stopped at Peak Head for a long time after the original routes and only reinstated after considerable consultation by Ross and others. I would think that more than a few people contemplated bolting the line that was retrobolted (I know I did), but I suspect everyone top roped it, checked all the guide BOOKS and talked to others before deciding against it. Same goes for Dockyard Wall. This route has one of the biggest reputations in WA climbing given the nature of the first ascent and it’s boldness. Maybe the grade is somewhat passé these days… but I’m still sure that anyone who leads it is pretty psyched up for the experience. There is no shortage of rock on the south coast that has plenty of blank spots for new routes with nil chance of impacting existing lines. So get out there and have fun. But please be careful. If you are not sure, climb the existing routes first or get someone who knows involved before the bolts go in.

    Mini guide – maybe tidy up the descriptions when you have climbed all your new lines and send me an email and pics and I can update the existing Porongurps mini guide. Same goes for Raven and anything else people are doing. I don’t have any great pics of the east face of Gibraltar so post some up if you do.

    #112110 Reply
    Richard
    Guest

    And just yesterday I was talking to Steve D who was going on about Ron Master’s ruthless retro-bolt of Apes Den, which he renamed Illusions of Grandeur. Since he only put in belay bolts shows how bad Ape’s Den was.
    Raven’s a great warm-up. Great views from a nice roomy cave . We always do it. Even though the climbing has a reputation being boring.

    #112112 Reply
    Neil
    Guest

    I thought Sucked in Ben was the preferred route for members of the Mt Barker Lawn Bowls Club…. too pumpy for you these days ?

    #112118 Reply
    Richard
    Guest

    Hey I was sitting dry in the car, you were the one pretending to be a Christmas ornament halfway up the face in thunderstorm. Anyway the bowls club got busted in schoolies week. I’m reduced to seconding with a jumar. Weak but maybe better than dodging exploding poo-containers at the base of El Cap. Nice photos by the way.

    #112121 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    Sorry Neil I no not know of anyone down here that has ticked zepplin.

    #112319 Reply
    Neil
    Guest

    Go ahead and mark up the new lines (and old if it pleases you):

    Gibraltar

    You can see where Raven goes pretty well too.

    #112330 Reply
    Richard
    Guest

    GR Dockyard Wall Possum Raven

    #112500 Reply
    Ron Master
    Guest

    As for the comment about illusions they are infact seperate lines. Apes den goes left below the flake/overlap and then up the face through a cave, illusions goes up over the flake/overlap and then straight up.

    #113141 Reply
    Richard
    Guest

    Gibralter Rock East Face showing Dinosaur Jr, Boganvillager, Spangelic Upstarts, and others.

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Reply To: Another route at Gibraltar Rock, following on from Dinosaur
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