bolting at montain quarry?

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  • #5347 Reply
    ed nepia

      without wanting to stir any long term debates about types of bolting..

      if a bloke wanted to clean and bolt a new line at mountain quarry.. would he use glue in carrots, fixe type, stainless trubolts with hangers? seems like there is a mix of types used at present so seeking advice please

      it does look like there is some room for the odd good independent line here and there.. maybe

      #5348 Reply
      Toc

        Hi Ed,

        DEC requirements are that bolts be installed to CAWA ethics which are the same ethics as anywhere else in NZ or Australia. Type of bolt is not specified, or fixing method, other than it’s best practise. CAWA has a stock of 100mm stainless steel bolts with longer than normal thread for maximum glue adhesion ($4.00) each but P bolts, rings and fixed hangers are all fine as long as they are stainless steel and installed properly. Having some idea of your history I don’t think that’s an issue. GIMBs have the advantage they are less obtrusive, but it is a quarry. Some people will love you if put in rings of some kind and you’ll get at least some statements about being old fashioned if you install GIMBs. There are still a few people using bash in carrots. Not many.

        By the way, I have spoken to the ranger from DEC about Sunday’s little effort and they apparently do require us to book. We had a committee meeting tonight and none of us had heard of it. We will be mentioning to the department that it’s not really a good idea to not tell us what’s going on but there you go. It happened and it got ugly. The rest of the commercial operators in the Perth that I’ve dealt have been great people and with them it just wouldn’t have happened that way.

        The office for taking the bookings is open everyday and it’s a simple matter of ringing them and they will tell you the pass word. If more than 40 people have booked, they’ll say no. There was no where near 40 people there Sunday. For everyone else who might read this, we are hoping to get more details tomorrow and will post them along with the phone number, which is all you really need.

        Cheers,

        Toc

        #5349 Reply
        ed nepia

          cheers Toc, yes a very bizzare situation on sunday, i was starting to wonder if having raving abseil instructors tossing ropes and curses on climbers was normal.. 😉

          #5350 Reply
          mike

            if you do find some spare rock, please please please do not use carrots or GIMBs… if CAWA will sell you bolts for 4$ ur better spending that 4$ on a hangered expansion. http://www.climbinganchors.com.au is your friend

            #5351 Reply
            ed nepia

              no problemo Mike,

              no intention of using GIMB/carrots seems a bit errr retro…. have my own stash of ss trubolts/hangers /rings etc

              cheers

              #5352 Reply
              ed nepia

                had a look at the safe climbing site, good stuff.

                there is another excellent site you may hav seen or not

                american safe climbing association

                http://www.safeclimbing.org/area.index.htm

                pretty exhaustive discussions on all things bolty

                #5353 Reply
                Toc

                  Hi guys,

                  Well at least Mike will be happy.

                  Oh, and a lot of others. I’m sure they will be good climbs.

                  The number to ring to book for the quarries is 9295 2244. Everyone going including children and non-climbers is supposed to be booked. The staff will give you the code current at the time. I’ll get more info out asap

                  Cheers,

                  Toc.

                  Cheers,

                  Toc.

                  #5354 Reply
                  ed nepia

                    thanks for the beta Toc,goin to the wall tonite if your keen/

                    ?

                    #5355 Reply
                    Toc

                      I wish. Got a meeting. Might get to Rockface on my way home.

                      Enjoy.

                      #5356 Reply
                      Richard W

                        Ed! Feel free to contact me in regards to the re-bolting methods/equipment being used currently at the quarries. With respect to Sundays saga – although there were upset individuals at the quarry with repect to numbers, it was dissapointing to see how badly the situation was handled by climbers involved considering the previous years spent in harmony.

                        #5357 Reply
                        ed nepia

                          thanks richard, i’ll go and have another look and climb and rap the line i was interested in and if it still looks reasonable I’ll be in touch, just want to make sure if i do do somethng that the gears consistent with local best practice, was that you rebolting on sunday?

                          dont know the history of the palaver around abseilers/groups etc just seemed to be a very bizzare situation

                          never heard of booking crags before..

                          #5358 Reply
                          Toc

                            You and every other climber in WA as well. Might have been a small oversight on the part of the Department there. It’s only the quarries that this applies to.

                            We will be talking about it with DEC but I’m not sure it’s worth trying to change. At least you will know you can get your car in away from thieves. That’s a heads up. With Churchman’s we strongly suggest you make sure your car is obviously empty of anything of value.

                            Cheers,

                            Toc.

                            #5359 Reply
                            Di

                              For those of us who weren’t there Sunday . . . what happened? Do we all need to phone DEC now to book before heading to any of the quarries? Geez I hope not!

                              #5360 Reply
                              Toc

                                Hi Di,

                                I wasn’t there, but this is the story I’ve got.

                                Several family groups were climbing in Mountain Quarry. An abseiling instructor decided his booking 4 people into the quarry gave him the quarry for the day, empty of other people. Words were exchanged. He called the Perth Hills National Park Centre several times. One of the climbers called me. A Department officer came out and spoke to the people concerned and told the climbers that “Yes, they should book,” but that he was happy to see climbers there, just they should book. I rang him yeserday and he confirmed this and also that he’s principally interested in diffusing the situation. I don’t think this problem would have arisen with any other commercial operator, but there we are. It does appear we have to book ourselves into the quarries, but when you do, you get the gate code. There is a limit of 40 people whether climbing, abseiling or just standing in the sun but there wasn’t 40 people at Mountain Quarry on Sunday. Boya Quarry is not affected only Statham’s and Mountain Quarries. The original understanding was that commercial and similar groups booked and small recreational groups did not. We don’t know when this changed and we don’t why climbers weren’t told because I can assure everyone, it was the first any of us had heard of it. Just another reason we are trying to talk to the department on a regular basis. There is a meeting next week between DEC representatives and CAWA and we will report on what happened. The number you have to ring for the quarries is 9295 2244, 9:00-4:30 weekdays and 10:00-4:00 weekends. Ring up and book at the gate if you like. There’s no waiting, just they’ll say no if there’s more than 40 bookings.

                                Cheers,

                                Toc

                                #5361 Reply
                                anonymous observer

                                  the abseiling instructor also launched several coiled ropes off ther top of the crag without any warning right amongst climbers below…. i dont think he forgot to shout….

                                  #5362 Reply
                                  Richard W

                                    Yes Ed! You can contact me at [email protected]

                                    #5363 Reply
                                    richard

                                      This is an enormous step. We had free access to the quarries now they are restricted. Once booking is accepted conditions can be applied.

                                      #5364 Reply
                                      anon observer 2

                                        The instructor was aggressive, unreasonable, and not willing to discuss his issues in calm manner. In 12 years of climbing around the world, I have never come across anybody like this. Praise to the climbers present for keeping calm and avoiding further confrontation

                                        FYI he took several photos of the new bolting and yelled out he had taken down all our regos….

                                        A strange day. Important, please note the new booking of the quarries arrangement was apparently set by DEC (without informing anybody) before Sunday, its NOT a result of the events yesterday.

                                        #5365 Reply
                                        Anon

                                          So who was this Abseiling operator? Do we get to find out so we can avoid him in the future or kept in the dark and just hope we don’t have to share space with him?

                                          #5366 Reply
                                          THE INVESTIGATER

                                            the guy was wearing a yellow shirt with the business name, ‘LIVING EDGE’

                                            Enquiries have revealed that this is a de-registered organisation. The angry person’s name is ALLAN GEORGE GREEN. At the time of the abuse and threats he was called Allan by one of the group he was with. He drives a White Nissan Patrol registration MJ-004 (blue private plates). please avoid any confrontations with the particular individual he has displayed agressive and violent tendencies towards other people with no apparent reason or cause.

                                            a concern person

                                            #5367 Reply
                                            the investigator

                                              It should also be made clear that the above mentioned information is alleged….The incident did occur, there were witnesses and it is alleged to be the person mentioned.

                                              #5368 Reply
                                              Gordon Johnston

                                                just a missinformed individual. Who is maybe now a bit embarrassed. Without people like this we would never realise how tollerant and cool climbers are.

                                                play nicely

                                                Gordon

                                                #5369 Reply
                                                ed nepia

                                                  sounds like fertile ground for imaginative new route names

                                                  best name wins the lollipop

                                                  #5370 Reply

                                                  #5371 Reply

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