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Had a great trip to Boulder Rock the other day, and checked out most of the problems in the guide. But having just looked at the hard problems thread, I see there are a few I don’t know about. Can anyone help with info?
Where are Baked Nipple and The Press?
And also, does anyone have beta for Smiley Face?
Thanks!
Oh yes, and I did a good sitstart problem on the small warm up boulder (boulder 2). Sitstarts on the right arete (looking at the slabby side), from small holds, to make a tough slap to a slopey hold, then finish up the arete. Does this problem have a name? Felt about the same difficulty as Use Your In-Stink, and harder than the Witch sitter (this seems a bit overgraded).
Hey Robin,
I did a few sit starts around boulder number 2 too. I did one right there on the right side as well (and on the left and the back too) but it didn’t seem very hard. maybe I’m not thinking of the right thing but what I did was maybe a V3?! Sit start to the right of the two slab problems…? not actually on the slab… dunno. I can’t climb V9 (yet!), haven’t even done so I don’t reckon it’s that hard– unless it’s an eliminate… put a picture up.
Didn’t seem eliminate. Doesn’t actually use the arete to start, is this what you did? This started left hand quite low crimp and right higher up – only two obvious holds I think. Toe out out right then pull up and hit a sloper on the arete. Hold swing and make some easier moves to finish. Will upload a photo.
Baked Nipple is on the west side of boulder 3 (in the vicinity of problems 8 and 9)? The small nipple should be ‘prominent’ if you find the right spot… It’s a highish start on a left hand edge and a right hand crimpy pinch.
I’m yet to see The Press.
Also, I’m with you on The Witch sitstart. I’ve only climbed V6 so far, but it doesn’t feel much harder than the V7-8s that I’ve tried.
Cheers Luke, I’ll have a look at that if I get out there again.
As regards grades, I guess it takes time and ascents for them to settle. For what it’s worth, my thoughts on grades for the problems I did – listed in order of difficulty:
Use Your In-Stink V9
Aformentioned Sitstart V9
Panic Button V7 (and not a giveaway at that grade – the topout alone is also more like V4, not V2!)
Whatchadoingandy V7
Beta Boy V7
Watermelon Right V6/7
Watermelon Left V6
The Witch Sitstart V6 (the topout is harder than V2!)
whatever i did was a bit (but not much) more right of that… looks good… give it a name and a grade… i’ll try it next time i’m there…
i didn’t find panic button that hard (the direct one) and did the traverse to it no problem but didn’t get to put the whole thing together)
i found the witch sit start to be beyond me at this point.
i guess i can do around V5ish?!
On The Witch sitstart, are you going to the small crimps, or to the gaston? I found the gaston way much easier.
I’ll name the sitstart Beast in Hiding, in honour of the stripey legged creature that I had to extract from my neck later that day. Soft V9 perhaps.
I think Panic Button is harder than the sum of its parts. The slopers tire out your hands for the finishing mantel. But if you’ve got it in two halves, you just need to keep trying! 😉
you might want to go easy on naming new things at Boulder Rock, especially anything on that boulder…
I’d give Panic Button a V5 (maybe stiff?), I did it long before I could climb V6, and now I cruise it. I found it much harder in summer, the slopers bake in the sun all day. The direct start feels like hard V3 to me.
I was thinking hard V7 for The Witch sit – sounds like I’ll need to have a go with the gaston beta if it only felt V6.
Don’t worry, I don’t really care if I did it first or not, but it’s good to have a name, whether it’s mine or someone else’s. Got to be worth talking about these things, just so we all know what’s out there.
Anyone know anything about the whereabouts of the Press or beta to Smiley Face?
Luke – you could be right about Panic Button – it was a little warm on Sunday, though there was a nice breeze. My grades were just the relative order of difficulty for me on the day. I had to fight on Panic Button – everything was slipping when I got to the finish!
Some really good problems at Boulder Rock. I was told by a few people there was nothing much worth bouldering on round Perth, but I have to disagree!
You were lied to!
There is great bouldering in Perth, alot of which is far better than Boulder Rock.
Unfortunately with the weather warming the season is drawing to a close. Down south it is!
I like what Robin is doing; if more hard boulderers felt like telling the rest of us about their finds/sends, Perth would have much more of a scene.
Agreed on heading south – in my case, all the way to Castle Hill NZ. Woot!
Ok Seth, I’ll bite! What are the top five bouldering spots round Perth?
Hahaha are there five areas?! 🙂
my faves in Perth would be pipelines, walyunga, Cooke and millars. Some great spots down south too.
Having not been in Perth that long myself there are some spots I haven’t been to though.
And then there’s the secret areas… 😉
“Beast in Hiding”, I like that. add it to the “hardest problems in WA” post.
If it’s V9 (even soft) then I definitely didn’t do it ’cause whatever I did was a sit start but had some pretty good jugs I think… few years ago so I forget.
Yeah, I still need to put “Panic Button” all together but the two halves I did overlapped so I reckon if I was fresh I could do it… Panic Button direct (the jumpstart/mantle didn’t seem that hard though– maybe a V3 if it should be raised up… I did it first try and I’m not that good so it can’t be too high…
this is long but I second Luke B– like what Robin is doing and wish more were doing it… come with us to Walyunga in a couple weeks and put up some new hard stuff (we’ll take care of the V4 and unders…)
oh yeah, and secret area schmecret area…
I agree with Seth. In fact I have always said that the bouldering around Perth far is better than the rope climbing (unfortunately haha)
For a bit of inspiration and to see what the mini-guides often cant convey check out Caine’s photos at
delacy.smugmug.com/Climbing
and Mushy’s at
mushy.smugmug.com/Sports/Bouldering-Outdoors
…they will give you an idea of what is out there other than Boulder Rock and Kalamunda.
Its a bummer that Andy Lampard’s site is down as he had a good chronicle of other sites that he had developed at Mt Cuthbert and Mt Randall as well.
I have been trying for months to get the Millers mini guide up in the bouldering section of this website to no avail. I will try perstering them once more.
And as for the secret areas, if Seth stopping being a sally sassy-pants maybe we could send the problems and make them public.
Emil, I have emailed you about publishing the Millers guide.
forgive me emil. I have seen the error of my ways.
So which of our secret areas should we head to this weekend?
not telling you seth…..
as for the millers guide, well you can get it from caine’s gallery on the link above.
I check mushy and delacy’s pics every once in a while and there is a lot of cool looking stuff but no directions… like Wombat Rocks, “New Hills Area”, Ringworld Boulders (off the top of my head) I forget what else… that’s fine… plenty i haven’t done at the less secret areas… i’ll just have to find a secret area of my own!
it’d be cool if there was a way to put pics and names of new problems directly up onto this site (or another site i s’pose)… then as soon as someone put up a new Vwhatever they could put it up and then later it could all be collected into a monster perth bouldering guide…
Thats a great idea Mike. It would help those folks keen to climb new things and would avoid the awkward situation of naming existing problems. Which to clarify I dont mind so much as long as the FA didnt name it in the first place, for instance, problem 70 at Millars was never named by Andy but has been dubbed “Vlad.”
