Buckle Up Spanky

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This topic contains 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Jamie 1 year, 8 months ago.

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    In the days leading to Millars Lookout becoming a bouldering mecca, Mark W and I bolted 4 lines at Millars that layed dormant while the bouldering called. The first of those lines fell on the weekend.

    The CAWA website has a brief description and guide at:


    and there are routes already done listed in the guide book. The 4 we have bolted are:

    Buckle Up Spanky – 24(!) 10m

    On the first vertical section of rock as you walk up the approach slabs, there are 2 bolted routes on the steepest black streaked section. BUS is the right hand route. The (!) is there as a couple of the clips are scary so reccommended you rap down and hang the draws. (double bolt rap anchor on the slab above)

    The route to the left is now an open project.

    There are 2 other bolted routes on the topmost large boulder that are still closed projects. All routes have Fixe hangers…




    Open project and closed project? What is the difference?



    Closed project = We bolted it, so we want the FA.

    Open project = we have established the line (ie bolted it) but are prepared for others to do it and claim the FA. In this case it means that the line is “futuristic”, aka “too hard for the likes of us”



    well if its too hard for you guys that generally counts out the rest of us punters….grins

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