Building a rack
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- This topic has 14 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 1 month ago by
Phillip.
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Bill
Hi, I am getting back into climbing with a plan to start leading. Any suggestions on what gear I should be getting.
I am experienced with setting up anchors and the roping side of things its the lead gear I am specifically interested in. What should I buy and any suggestions where?
Thanks
Chris D
Well you’ll need quickdraws (I assume you’ve got a rope).
Do you want to lead trad and sport or only sport?
You’ll need bolt plates for sport climbs in WA.
For trad climbs I reckon start with a set of wires. You might want to buy some cams if you can afford them too. A couple of slings are useful, nut tool for getting pieces out too.
And you’ve got the old decision about whether you want to wear a helmet.
But there should be various articles you can search for online about gear for starting out.
No particular recommendations for shops.
Hope that helps.
Chris
Phil
As Chris said, depends on what sort of climbing…
If you want to buy me a new set of everything, I’d be happy to tell you what to get and what not to…
Seriously however, as well as your usual rope, preferably 60 m, harness, shoes, belay device, etc I’d say:
For Sportz:
10 quickdraws
10 dolt plates
2 or 3 long slings (1 – 6 metres)
3 or 4 locking crabs.
For Trad, as above, plus:
set of wires
set of cams – say 6 or more of various sizes.
I’ve got about 12 quickdraws, 20 wires, 14 cams, 6 locking crabs.
Of course, if you want to share with your climbing partner, then you buy half each, but from what I’ve seen, most folk want to use their own gear, rather than other peoples’.
Some of the online shops eg http://www.rockhardware.com.au sell whole sets of gear at good prices. Or go into a shop and ask for a huge discount if you buy a set of something.
David Wyndham
For online research of gear sets here are a couple of links for complete racks:
http://www.mtntools.com/cat/mt/necess/mt_caroll.htm
http://www.wildernessshop.com.au/climbing_sets.pdf
I’m the gear freak kind of person and my rack looks similar to the Callifornia Roll. 3 sets of wires, half-set of hexes, 17 cams, 13 quickdraws, 13 bolt plates, 10 locking carabiners, various slings etc all in a Yvandy gear wrap. With a half set of tri-cams and some more lightweight quickdraws on the way from Canada.
Bill
Wow, thanks for the replies.
I am looking at more trad climbing than bolted but I will be getting some bolt plates anyway. No point overlooking a bolted route just because its been bolted. Its all good experience for me.
Thanks Again.
Reinhold
I try not to have more gear than I can carry. Camalot’s are best, but don’t buy the old models with circular holes unless at a 50% discount. And a nut-scratcher for embarassing occasions when you get one of your nuts jammed in an awkward crack.
Shannon
There is a US based website called spadout, it basically finds the cheapest price for whatever outdoor equipment you are looking for from US gear websites. With our dollar pretty strong you can equip yourself pretty well without paying a fortune, even with the extra cost of shipping.
I usually shop through bentgate, rei or backcountry if it helps.
Cheers
ed nepia
well if moneys no object buy good quality
set wires , doubles of sizes 1-4
couple med hexes
cams from fingers through to fist size (camalots, friends, metolius are all good)
nut tool
set prussicks
couple long slings (about 2-3m)
4 x 60cm slings
either a 10m x 10mm chunk o static rope or a long piece of webbing for constructing anchors back from an edge
5-6m x 7mm cord (cordellete) very very handy
4 lockers (pear/HMS shape)
dozen quickdraws (get some longer ones in the mix)
a bunch of plain crabs for racking gear (10 or so)
and a couple for spares
60m x 10.2/5 rope
a full strength padded gear sling is nice
reverso/guide ATC or similar belay device
once your getting addicted add
small cams such as C3 camalots, Metolius TCU, WC tech friends
a large cam or hex
set of offset wires and some small wires such as RPs
have fun!
Phillip
You’ll need bolt plates – many climbs are mixed bolts/trad. I’d say 5 at a minimum. I have … about 12 or so. I keep losing/collecting them.
Bill
Can I ask which brand is the best?
There are so many out there. I know this is a personal preference but I would like to hear it.
Black Diamond, Melotius, HB?? Any Comments?
David Wyndham
‘Best’ is not the right term. A lot of it is personal preference, a lot of it is situational, and some is cost.
If you buy something from a recognised brand, UIAA and/or CE certified then it’s pretty much impossible to buy badly.
As far as my personal climbing gear goes I have Black Diamond, Petzl, Austrialpin, Madrock, HB, Climbing Technology (OK they aren’t that good, but were really cheap), CCH, CAMP, Metolius, Mammut, PFH, Ferno (Vertical), MountainTools, HB, Wild Country, Tendon, La Sportiva, Evolv, Rock Empire, Faders, YVandy Umm, I think that is it.
If you have people that will let you borrow stuff so you can place it yourself that helps. Gear mags that do comparitive reviews are also good (I know one issue of CRUX had a round-up of all SLCDs readily availble) and make up your own mind based on what is important to you.
David Wyndham
Damn, knew I’d forget something, I also have RPs.
Populous
If you define “best” as “most popular” then you can’t go wrong with Black Diamond C4’s. It is a good, safe choice, especially for your first rack.
If you turn up with a set of cams from some obscure brand, that no one outside of Kazakhstan has heard of, then you might find some people reluctant to climb with you. It may not be an entirely rational response but some climbers are brand-oriented.
That said, the smaller Black Diamond C3’s aren’t the best available for the size. Alien’s and Wild Country are better options here.
ed nepia
for nuts or hexes? Wild country, black diamond
cams? Black diamond, Wild Country, Metolius
Crabs? Petzl, and above, DMM
ropes/harnesses slings etc? they are all good but I like Mammut most
Phillip
“Populous, 10 Aug 2009 – WA, Perth region
If you define “best” as “most popular” then you can’t go wrong with Black Diamond C4’s. It is a good, safe choice, especially for your first rack.”
Wanna see all my old Black D’s with the cracks in them? I sent them back under warrenty and they sent me a new set, but they all cracked as well within a month or so…
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