Home Forums Bouldering WA Can someone give me the beta on Execution V7?

  • This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by Mike (R).
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  • #8737 Reply
    Luke B

    As far as I can tell it’s a move from the starting hold to a gaston with the right, then a big pop to the huge edge farther up to the right. How do the feet go? Swing the left foot up to the starting hold, or keep them low?

    This grade is new ground for me and I haven’t seen anyone else doing it, so I’m keen for beta! Cheers.

    #8738 Reply
    Luke B

    I trawled through Mushy’s galleries and found a couple of pics. Tactics appear to be variously a massive throw to a smallish edge directly from the starting hold, an unusually high toehook move, and something involving some other holds farther right.

    I’m not sure what’s going down, but none of it looks like the beta I was trying!

    #8739 Reply

    Don’t know any beta for it but keep working on it! hope you can send soon. i hope to be at that level someday too… onya

    #8740 Reply
    Mike (R)

    No one ever gave you that beta…

    Do you know the beta for Watermelon? got the heel hook for the right foot and the right hand on that little side pull but after that we couldn’t figure much out.

    #8741 Reply
    Luke B

    Yeh, I’m over in NZ for a year anyway (getting in some higher quality climbing!), so Execution will have to wait…

    I haven’t done Watermelon yet (wasn’t strong enough when I tried it ages ago), but as far as I know, you need to go for the sidepull with your left hand (gaston it), then lever up on your right heel until you can reach the small edge up high. It’s a big reach.

    It’s harder than any other V5 I’ve seen so far in WA or NZ.

    #8742 Reply
    Mike (R)

    I thought it seemed harder than other V5s I’ve tried/done. A few of the other V grades seemed a bit high (or low for that matter)in my opinion. Even compared to other stuff in WA. My friends who have climbed in Sydney also reckon a lot of the stuff in WA is harder (at least in the low V1-5 range that we climb– maybe they are more or less the same the higher you get).

    I guess I was going with the wrong hand. That makes sense.

    Have fun in NZ.

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