Carbon Dogs Roaming at Stathams Quarry

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  • #5809 Reply
    Matt Rosser

      **Carbon Dogs 10m 26

      Start as for No Ordinary Determination sharing 1st BR. Trend up and left past 2 FBR to finish on arête. 2FBR and 3BR to lower offs. D. Zonta, M. Rosser 25 Feb 07

      See the startling video of an early attempt at //savefile.com/projects/1060568

      The grade is for placing all gear on lead.

      #5810 Reply
      curious

        what gear?

        #5811 Reply
        Neil

          Carbon Puppies if i do it with the draws / plates already on ?

          #5812 Reply
          Peter

            Awesome does that mean if i do Urban Ethics putting all the bolt plates + draws on i can claim it as a 23 on my 8a.nu profile?

            #5813 Reply
            Peter

              OMG that means that if i place the gear on Chips and Dips then it’s a 27! I can stop throwing myself at Sweet Pea for a 7c tick . I’m gonna be ranked above Logan in no time….

              #5814 Reply
              confused

                hi im a new climber to the sport and am just learning to lead. im reading this post and am a little confused on the grading system. i thought that a climb’s grade is fixed and for any ascent. it seems here that the climb is being graded differently because you have to place those annoying bolt plate thingies. is this standard? does that mean that trad routes get an extra grade or two because you have to place gear? or is that already built into the grade? im a bit baffled and embarrassed….

                #5815 Reply
                Matt Rosser

                  The climb is graded to reflect the difficulty of an on site lead. That is placing all gear from the ground up with no previous practice or beta. The Australian grading system was developed on these key principals.

                  Obviously, to a stronger or lesser degree, a climb is easier if bolt plates and quick draws are pre placed and you have watched others do it or you have top roped it etc. This is particularly true of this climb ‘carbon dogs’ as finding stances to place plates and draws is a big part of the climbs technical difficulty. This is why I made the comment on gear and the grade.

                  On the grade. I welcome feedback on the grade. For me it is difficult to know as I have practiced the line many times and obviously can’t try an on sight attempt. However, I can lead placing all the gear so I know part of the story. I would only ask people reflect on the correct style when offering their opinion.

                  #5816 Reply
                  Ross

                    Hi, “confused”. Oz grade reflects the total difficulty of the route, so yeah, if the thing was trad, it maybe would be harder, depends on clip stances, and carrots are harder to deal with than rings.

                    Maybe the worst person to grade a climb is the one who cleaned it and bolted it, so pls give Matt your feedback, don’t be shy. It is not disrespectful to give feedback, it is essential.

                    In practice, the grades are not for onsight or redpoint or whatever, regardless of how the system was invented, as most people don’t care. You just have to use more words to describe the difficulty, like “24 onsight” or “24 after 10 attempts”. Discussions of +/-1 grade (which is all the differenceu usually) are futile, the system is not that accurate and personal attributes make all the diff….

                    I am a foot taller than Logan but with half the grip! so…

                    At the end of day the grade is there just to steer people to a climb they want to be on (ans is just one factor).

                    #5817 Reply
                    Nick

                      The Actual difficulty of Carbon Dogs *may* be more like 25 in comparison to other quarry routes in that grade range.

                      #5818 Reply
                      Emil

                        I agree.

                        #5819 Reply
                        Matt Rosser

                          Thanks for the feedback. 25 it is.

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