Home Forums First Ascents Carrots?

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  • #6905 Reply
    Were-Rabbit
    Guest

    I will start eating the carrots!

    #6906 Reply
    bugs bunny
    Member

    ok doc, i’m feeling peckish

    #6907 Reply
    Marianne
    Member

    Just a comment about the last thread..this seems to be the space for overflow! Um, just a slight correction…however infuriating Ismael may be (and I suspect quite a bit of stirring going on since he has done quite a bit for the climbing community in his time), he’s actually rather good at irony, which has change very little over the last couple of thousand years, believe it or not! I feel very strange coming to his defence since we usually have extremely different opinions about things (see my earlier post) but there it is 🙂

    #6908 Reply
    Tod
    Member

    Matt affords that Audi but we’re still seeing no glue.

    ..

    __

    #6909 Reply
    bugs bunny
    Member

    yeah wierd eh given that audis have such high safety ratings…

    #6910 Reply
    Were-Rabbit
    Member

    One good full moon will have a good quantity of those carrots munched! Never fear, the Were-Rabbit is here! Only glue will stop my rampage.

    #6911 Reply
    John Knight
    Member

    Time to move on from carrots I reckon, they’re are about as stable as my grandma on red bull and prune juice.

    #6912 Reply
    George
    Member

    …..What have i missed… OH nothing it must be that time in the month were everybody goes under a ridiculous anonymous name and thunders hot air about there distain for ye olde Carrot. Then the very next day can be seen hanging gleefully from those same pieces of overly canonised S%#t.

    Im glad some people still enjoy waffling on about the same boring crap

    🙁

    #6913 Reply
    bugs bunny
    Member

    quick then, hurry up and do nothing

    its not like theres a lot else on, is there?

    #6914 Reply
    Were-Rabbit
    Member

    Oh Ye of little faith George. I intend to strike and munch carrots I will! The carrot brothers will go running in fear and confusion as their precious routes get eaten up. And I will not stop until they see the wickedness in their ways and repent. The hour of the Were-Rabbit is here and only a giant gold bullet will stop me!

    #6915 Reply
    Were-Rabbit
    Member

    ……and they have many carrot patches to plunder! I will strike with mystifying stealth and vigour!!

    #6916 Reply
    woden man
    Member

    i am thinking of putting in a new climb and was wondering is it ok to use bashed in pegs made from jarrah. the wood has been seasoned and is very strong. it has the added advantage of not atracting lightening during storms when you are climbing. if carrots are ok then my jarrah is great. thinking of calling my climb ‘the ark noah told me to climb’

    #6917 Reply
    bugs bunny
    Member

    no jarrahs no good, what you need is real carrots, or swedes at a pinch, just scoop out a shallow hole at the bottom of the route plant your carrot and voila eco-anchor!

    Of course they are only good for the first ascent which should be heavily practiced on custom chipped holds as a fall is likely to plant another vege next to the first

    #6918 Reply
    woden man
    Member

    great thanks for the advise. another question with the chipped holds can use my hilti jack hammer to gouge i mean chip big holds

    #6919 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Apparently if you are the first person to look at a piece of rock you can drill it, chip it or even cut stairs into it to bring it to your level if you want. No need to climb harder anymore, just make the climb easier…

    #6920 Reply
    George
    Member

    Maybe we can release a “Selected best of Perths best chipped 24’s “.

    that would fit in with the theme of all these routes….project…whats that…virgin rock….must creat a new 24…:)

    #6921 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    call it ‘packet of chips’/ praps 😉

    #6922 Reply
    Kate
    Member

    I’d like to see a “Perth selected best un-chipped 24’s”… Don’t think that list would be very long…

    #6923 Reply
    mike
    Member

    such a nice change to come back to ‘ol WA after climbing in places where a sense of perspective reigns.

    does it really need to be said that probably 50% of the routes in the quarries are deliberately drilled, chipped or glued anyway (yes wombats, urban ethics, sweet pea, chips and dips, fuzz bucky etc – all chipped/drilled). Or that probably 30% of the remaining ones are comfortised, glue-reinforced or creatively cleaned?

    heck, step outside of the quarries onto hallowed ground that is so coveted as virginal and you’ll find many a glue reinforced hold – but that is a different story altogether.

    have any nay sayers actually climbed matt and jim’s new routes at mountain/stathams quarry? cause if you had, you would realise that theyre bloody good climbs – great test pieces at different grades that aspiring leaders can redpoint for that “i climb xx” spray. think youre a 24 climber cause you dogged the shit out of hang ten? well you used to be able to say that cause there wasnt another good 24 on bolts close to perth.

    lets also not forget others that do the same – a few routes by different authors have gone up in the last year or two via the same processes.

    and the trite whines of ‘so i can go and chip an existing climb and call it mine?’ – no dickhead you cant, cause someone else has climbed it. Can you go and clean/bolt and then chip your own bit of quarry heaven – yep go for it, we need more routes!

    the bits of rock that have been sculptured to make these routes were so worthless as ‘natural’ routes anyway. thats if someone was going to bother developing them, which they would not considering how blank and uninspiring they used to be.

    ‘oh’ people say ‘but “running with the bulls” could have been a chossy hard 31 crimp fest…’ Well then why didnt you go and bolt it yourself 5 years ago, or last year for that matter? put fucking ps in it if you want, but remember it will cost you almost $100 to put up said route.

    the quarries are urban playgrounds people and i would rather a good quality, chipped 24 that 50 people will climb than (maybe) a nasty 30 that 1 person will climb for the glory and not for the beauty of the route.

    as for the carrots, yep i curse M+J for putting in carrots everytime i remember to put bolt plates in my chalk bag. but you know what? theyre safe on the terrain that they place them in (slabs and vertical rock) and they have probably placed over 500 bolts in this state. thats $250 investment in bolts as opposed to $4000 for expandos or ps. unless you yourself pay money towards bolts/bolting/rebolting you have no valid opinion in this argument.

    kudos M+J for keeping yourself and a dedicated few entertained.

    #6924 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    Wow Mike you seem so angry, why dont you go on holiday somewhere nice?

    and yes i have climbed some of their routes and contrary to you thought they were pretty average, but as you say its a quarry and anything goes right?

    So you’d rather a mass produced chipped 24 then a natural 31 testpiece eh? good that really gives us all something to aspire to… mediocricity rules, average is in, excellence is out, never mind that there are Better climbers then you

    are you seriously saying that the chipped routes are beautiful?

    crikey mate you need to get out more

    #6925 Reply
    colin m
    Member

    mike :”but you know what? theyre safe on the terrain that they place them in (slabs and vertical rock)”

    Some local experience with carrots:

    http://www.climberswa.asn.au/Community/Messageboard/default.asp?view=message&id=79

    Seen some bash in carrots removed from slabs in NSW with sickening ease.

    #6926 Reply
    mike
    Member

    as i eluded to, i dont really like carrots either. but not because theyre necessarily unsafe, i just fucking hate them.

    what i object to is people rewarding new routers (read bolters in this state) with complaints. if you dont like them bolting using carrots, cough up some dough so they can buy better bolts.

    **or better still, beat them to the virginal rock theyre about to chip and carrot bolt, and put up your own routes. just dont bitch when they beat you to it….

    and colin, that is not “some local experience with carrots” that is “one local experience with carrots”. scientifically that is better odds than getting skin cancer.

    #6927 Reply
    Logan
    Member

    Well Mike….

    I think your last post needs a response as i would hate to think that your narrow perspective may in anyway be accepted and become the normal way of thinking in Perth where the ethics and purity of climbing already hardly exist.

    Around the world people climb to push themselves and their own limits. There are kids sending 34’s and some of the harder stuff is now breaching 36. 24/5 IS NOT HARD!!! This is currently the grade that social climbers end up settling at, the ones that just climb purely to hang out with their friends and go for a beer after. And that is totally fine. The problem with chipping all these routes to that level is that when the gym improves and the local scene gets more psyched, gear such as shoes gets better, the social grade should go up to say 26/7 yet there will be hardly anything above 25 so it wont. There goes the pushing your limits part of climbing for even the social climber. “Ah well… just spend more time in the gym. I’ve done everything at the quarry.”

    I must admit i, many moons ago, have chipped a route at Mountain Quarry (Space Monkey 28) which i think is good and i chipped the top half which i thought was not doable. By this i mean it was probably harder than 34/5. Maybe i shouldn’t have chipped it? I definitely don’t condone chipping, not even in a quarry, now that i do stuff i used to think would be impossible.

    Your comments;

    “which they would not considering how blank and uninspiring they used to be”

    “i would rather a good quality, chipped 24 that 50 people will climb than (maybe) a nasty 30 that 1 person will climb for the glory and not for the beauty of the route”

    Why do you think we have the right on a public bit of rock to say that it is blank (ie too hard for us) and uninspiring (ie i don’t have a chance so i wont bother) and so should be changed. It is selfish to say we want 25’s and stuff those who want anything harder because theres only a few of them. And don’t insult 30 by saying it is nasty! Some of the best routes i have ever done have been around that grade. It all depends on your perspective of the sport (ie what style of climbing you like and at what grade). In 20 years i am certain Perth along with the rest of the world will be producing alot harder climbers. It is what happens when the sport gets bigger. People like Matt and Jim are ruining it for future generations and anyone who currently wants to push themselves past the social peak. Drilling a f*k off big jug in a granite wall IS PERMANENT!!!! Carrots..well…that sucks but at least bolts can be ripped out (ie pillar of Sophocles in the not too distant future) and possibly replaced

    PERTH. STOP BEING SELFISH AND THINK OF THE FUTURE OF THE SPORT!!! QUARRIES MAY BE S*T HOLES BUT THEY ARE OUR S*T HOLES.

    I would like CAWA with the perth communities consent to create some kind of governing body over development within the Perth area. Chipping in quarries should only be given the ok with a large groups consent that yes this route is probably not doable or harder than grade 40 or something. Outside the quarries chipping and reinforcing should be/is already a no go! There should be a bolting standard (sorry, no carrots.)

    Oh, and mike. Implying that climbers climb 24 for its chipped beauty and anyone who climbs harder is just glory seeking is just down right stupid. Grow up.

    Sorry for my rant! Gotta love the CAWA website 🙂

    PS It is ok for a bit of rock not to have a route on it! Something for people to aspire to in the future.

    #6928 Reply
    mike
    Member

    and ed – well its all a question of perspective.

    sweetpea was manufactured to be a 27

    cardiofunk a 29

    cranial void a 27

    ersatz a 31

    zombie man a 31

    chips and dips a 26

    etc etc.

    each one of those routes could have been left in their natural state and who knows, maybe perth would have a bunch of 34s for us crane our necks and gawk at.

    or maybe someone decided to take it upon themselves and “create” a route cause thats what they needed/wanted. people in these forums laughably refer to these routes as classic benchmarks, when theyre carved from rock in the same fashion as M+J are doing.

    somehow a faction of the perth community has got itself some steely ethics, where in the past there has been an unspoken agreement to relax them. coupled with the carrot bolt fracas it only shows me that there are more people with an ill formed opinion than with the ability to provide a cogent argument.

    #6929 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    yep that pretty much covers it Logan!

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