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  • #6980 Reply
    Shannon
    Member

    Thanks Richard, I look forward to hearing from you.

    Neil just a quick question, the safer cliffs website shows these glues as recommended

    Recommended brands/models

    Ramset Chemset Injection 801

    Ramset Chemset Injection 101

    Hilti HIT-HY 150

    Powers Power-fast Epoxy

    Powers Acrylic-100

    Powers KF2

    Now I know re500 is not there (oversight?), however a lot of the glues that are are poly based rather than epoxy, even the ramset which is highly recommended, some are not as strong as the sika (which even though not as strong as the hilti is still stronger than a lot of glues and even climbing gear out there)

    #6981 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    sika has been used in nz (and other countrys) mostly for reinforcing holds rather then bolting.

    #6982 Reply
    steve k
    Member

    Ed – maybe in the south island but almost all the new developement in the central north island has been with sika anchorfix 1. – the new kinloch crags, kawakawa bay, reporoa and satelites, Matt Natti uses it so i suppose the “new paynes” will have it too ! ive placed over 200 bolts with the stuff, so i told Shannon about it. i reckon its bomber, and also, is there any kind of glue thats specificly made for rock climbing ? its just what i know and what i was told to use by the “A team” over there. i dont reinforce holds though, its just me but i reckon if a hold crumbles or snaps off it was gonna anyway. its funny how some people when cleaning a route, if a crucial hold comes off they glue it back on, but if a piece of rock comes off and reveals a hold its somehow different. i reckon it might be where where chipping and gluing started. rock naturally exfoliates, thats why granite boulders are round. i dont think sika would be sold full stop in WA if it couldnt handle temps hotter than 50. it was 47 in the shade in kelmscott the other day.

    #6983 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    sweet thanks for that, i cant claim to be any expert on glues coming from the land of the long silver trubolt eh.. you living over here now Steve?

    #6984 Reply
    Richard W
    Member

    Some small info on RE500 – I ‘m reasonably sure it was introduced over in Thailand bolting due to the harsh environment the bolts exist in. The limestone there also has minerals that naturally eat through bolts. RE500 gives an awesome protectice coating around the Titanium and seeps into the rocks pores giving a bomber bond. As previously mentioned the ability to use the glue in wet holes also adds to it’s desirability.

    #6985 Reply
    steve k
    Member

    Ed – yep back for good unfortunately ! im getting very homesick for taupo. youl probly see me out climbing once my ankle gets better.

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