Home Forums Climbing Talk Changes to raven.north face of gibraltar rock

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  • #12551 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    The 3rd and 4th pitches of raven can be a bit of a stretch with a 50 mtr rope.now there is a choice of alternate belays below existing ones for shorter ropes.this route now gets a lot of traffic and is a real classic I hope these improvements help.

    #12557 Reply
    John PD
    Guest

    Hey, JP here, you showed us Raven on saturday. I cant find the guide to Raven on the website, can you point me in the right direction?

    To everyone else, this is a great climb for some good exposure multipitch experience without relying on trad gear.

    Also, we climbed Albatros on sunday, cheers for the recommendation, great climb, except i couldnt find any protection in the 3rd pitch, did i possibly miss some bolts? i had a couple of brown pant moments running out the slab, and im not too keen on doing that again, So any tips on how to protect it if theres no bolts?

    #12559 Reply
    Trevor
    Guest

    Hi John,

    Albatross has no/few bolts on the 3rd pitch so it’s best to set up another rope that has some pre-tied loops from the top anchors or alternatively run it out like you did. Glad you had a good outing, they’re some enjoyable climbs!

    #12560 Reply
    JC
    Guest

    JC here (JP’s brother). Thanks for showing us the way John! It was so lucky we ran into you. What a great day. I look forward to bringing some of my climbing mates in the future. I’ve already been talking it up.

    As JP said, we had a crack at Albatros the next day, and although very enjoyable we had some unexpected trouble on the 3rd pitch, which JP ended up soloing. It’s definitely quite easy past the first 3m, but likely death if something does somehow go wrong. South coast book says good protection which is a bit misleading. I see here https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climbs-at-peak-head-and-the-blowholes/ that there’s a bolt that now protects the 3rd pitch, but we must have missed it, unless it’s no longer there. Can anyone confirm this bolt? Anyway, we’ll just follow Trevor’s advise if we do it again.

    Fantastic climbing weekend down South, we look forward to coming back to the Albany & WCH area soon.

    Cheers,

    #12561 Reply
    AndyG
    Guest

    If you read that post again it refers to the bolt on Baylac super direct – avoids everyone converging on the last belay of Albatross. The crux on the last pitch of Albatross, just off the belay, is protected by a wire (have used both an RP and Trango ballnutz on different ascents). The rest is relatively easy and runout – but isn’t that part of the fun?

    #12562 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    Hey guys wrapped you loved the route.the weather gods smiled that day.there is a route description in forum under(climbing talk) a few pages back.you are right about the top of albatross it is a bit spicy the gear is there just hard to spot but originally led that way and any talk of a bolt on the orginal line may find yourself being dragged into the bush by old bearded men and clubbed to death with a number 10 hex.let me know when your down this way again can show you some new Local stuff.0412548308

    #12563 Reply
    kym
    Guest

    new local stuff? dont let anyone near those offwidths john.. its handstack, no 6 camalot, chickenwing glory next time I’m down. tell lord jim i’m ready for another sandbag

    #12564 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    I have just the sandbag for you overhung offwith incrusted with bird dung just bring your rubber suit .kneepads and wooden wedges.told my new boss arapiles in nov if your still keen

    #12566 Reply
    kym
    Guest

    Sounds good I hope its flared, araps in november for sure

    #12574 Reply
    Phillip
    Guest

    On the 3rd pitch of Albatros you can get in 3 or 4 cams. You follow the sloping ramp up to the left and there are several places up at waist to shoulder-height. I think I use a 0.25, 0.5 and 1.5 BD cams.

    I’ve never seen a bolt on Albatros and hope I never will! It’s one of my favouite climbs and I do it every time I go to PH.

    #107034 Reply
    John PD
    Guest

    Hi John Boy, your number still 0412548308?

    #107035 Reply
    John PD
    Guest

    cool opportunity for local climber if your up for some climbing this weekend

    #107039 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    Hi John yep that’s still my number headin out to west cape howe this weekend if your keen.

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