Cleaning cliffs

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  • #3909 Reply
    Andrew

      Hey, I’m a sandgroper living in sweden for the summer. My mates and I went bouldering yesterday and found an old quarry (as well as a new bouldering area!). It seemed like there are some decent lines on it. It ranges from 15 – 35 meters. The only thing is there seems to be quite a lot of loose rock.

      My question is, what kind of work went into cleaning the routes on mountain quarry? When is a quarry too chossy to bother with. My mates said it was shit but it didnt seem that much different to the quality of mountain quarry.

      #3910 Reply
      John Knight

        Andrew as in my climbing partner? 😉 If so, how are ya dude? Sounds like Swedes are fussier than us then…

        #3911 Reply
        Andrew

          Yeah not bad John. We’ve just started developing said bouldering place, a 10m x 5m cliff. I’ll try to send some photos to that previous bickley boulders site.

          I’m not allowed to work anymore because my visas run out so ive been able to go climbing quite a lot.

          I dunno that theyre fussy, a little whimpy maybe 🙂

          #3912 Reply
          MR

            Cleaning to some degree accompanies all Mt quarry lines.

            I use a few tools regularly. A 1m pinch bar to leverage blocks, a hand held sledge hammer (1.8kg) to sound the rock, a nut key to remove small flakes, wire brush for mud and dust pan brush for dirt.

            Start at the top and work down leveraging obvious blocks and tapping flakes, brushing mud etc.

            Some blocks move slightly (rock) with a pinch bar but are safely held due to their shape. Some blocks are ok initially but become loose when lower blocks are removed.

            Take care around drill stems – they will have very clean rock around the top section and will typically end at a shattered ledge. The ledge will probably contain a few large loose blocks interspersed with totally shattered material. A mattock is a quick way of getting rid of this fractured material. Sometimes it’s preferable to leave these ledges intact (of course get rid of the obvious loose blocks) traversing onto them to gain the clean rock above.

            A spade is also useful – if a quantity of dirt is at the top and it is clear that rain will bring it down the line.

            Be careful of your rope. Don’t drop rock onto it! Have someone at the bottom pulling the free end of the rope clear and attaching tools as required. For large blocks coil the rope over your shoulder to make sure that it’s out of the trajectory.

            Some very large blocks are precariously poised. I have removed refrigerator sized blocks with a few kicks.

            Always assume loose rock and a gob smacking line underneath.

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