Home Forums Partner wanted / Lift shares Climb Willyabrup this Long Weekend

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  • #7796 Reply
    Longarms
    Guest

    Hi all,

    I have just moved to WA from Vic, and am keen to get out and climb. Is anyone heading down to Margaret River(Willyabrup) from Perth (or already in MR) this long weekend and keen for a climb? I will lead up to 14 and top rope in high teens. Have a full Rope & Rack. Happy to take on lower grades or go out with more experienced and push higher grades.

    Cheers, hope to climb soon. Nathe 0429 294 841

    #7797 Reply
    Numbat
    Member

    “I will lead up to 14 “

    Is there anything that easy at Willys?

    Try something harder over here. If your used to 14’s and below at Arapiles, then you should be able to do harder stuff in WA. It seems to me that many of the lower graded climbs in Vic are undergraded. Either that, or the lower grades in WA are overgraded. eg – Muldoon (13) is a fairly serious climb that I look forwards to when I’m at Araplies, but in WA I would never bother leading (or seconding) a 13.

    #7798 Reply
    Longarms
    Member

    Thanks for the heads up Numbat. I spose I wont know till I go. I have done all my climbing at Araps and Grampians, so cant really compare as yet. Grading seems a bit subjective to me. No grade is the same as any other. I completed a 13 (cant remember the name)at Summerday Valley and breezed it, but when I tried Cunrack in Castle Crag, I s*** myself on the crux. But thats all part of the fun.

    #7799 Reply
    David Wyndham
    Member

    There will be about 10 people from the UWA-Outdoor club at Willys this weekend. We’ll have a few topropes up, and likely be leading stuff in the mid-high teens as well. You’re welcome to join us if you like. I’m sure you’ll be able to find us.

    I’ll try send you an SMS when I charge my phone’s battery tonight.

    As for the discussions of grades, I have friends that read all grades in guidebooks as +/- 3 anyway, climbs get re-graded, styles are different etc. Muldoon isn’t a particularly hard climb from what I remember, but the crux move sure has some headspace on it. When I was at Araps last year we did Panzer (12 I think) and that had some smeary slab moves that is more like a 16 over here.

    #7800 Reply
    Numbat
    Member

    “when I tried Cunrack in Castle Crag, I s*** myself on the crux. But thats all part of the fun.”

    Recently I was at Willys and led a 18, 19 and a 21, and by far the most scary was the 18…

    As for “thats all part of the fun.”, yeah, well it was – that evening over a bottle of red!

    #7801 Reply
    Hynek
    Member

    Hi Longarms,

    I’ll be in the region on the long weekend with relatives and would love to sneak away for a few hours of climbing. I’d be looking at top roping anything up to 17. Feel free to call me on 0408 955 177 to arrange something for Sat or Sun, otherwise I may see you or the UWA crowd down there anyway.

    Hynek

    #7802 Reply
    David Wyndham
    Member

    Hey, the more the merrier.

    #7803 Reply
    colin m
    Member

    I have climbed extensively at both Wilys and Arapiles..I think the grades are very similar. Its a different style of climbing though, I would say the gear is generally more sparse at Willys so you need to be competent at the grade you are leading. Im always far happier pushing my limits at Arapiles. Also consider the conditions, a strong onshore with high swell can deposit salt/moisture on the rock, making it quite slippery and pushing up the grade a notch.

    Enjoy, a great place and great wines. I also noticed that wine consumption can bump the grades up the following day too.

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