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  • #126984 Reply
    Douglas Hockly
    Guest

    Hi,

    About to spend a week at Ningaloo snorkelling, and just discovered that there’s climbing there too.

    http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/exmouth/area/11780929

    I talked to a friend who’d been there maybe 10 years ago and he remembered enjoying this wall:

    http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/exmouth/area/12155899

    http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/exmouth/area/12155923

    Has anyone climbed here more recently? If so how good is the climbing/rock? Are the bolts still OK? Is it worth bringing trad gear, and if so how much – a full rack or just a handful? Does the cliff get any shade this time of year or is it a better winter destination? (average 33 degrees daytime temp for April)

    Any suggestions for other cool stuff to see or do appreciated – I’ve heard of the fig tree cave, and who wouldn’t have heard of the troglobitic schizoids.

    Thanks very much,
    Douglas

    #127320 Reply
    Crip
    Guest

    Hey Douglas,

    I was there the other day and got told to leave and never come back by a DPAW Conservation Manager. The issue is about climbing there being a disturbance to the threatened wallaby population. The climbing on the northern side of the gully, in my opinion, is a possible disturbance (but still no different to hiking), but the climbing on the southern side of the gully seems to have minimal disturbance. Other people have been told not to climb there by National Park rangers because the bolts have been tested and found to be unsafe (those on the northern side of the gully), and some other friends of mine were allowed to climb there if they filled out an indemnity like form. This is a shame because the climbing on the Holy Wall and the Bagwan Wall is classic.

    If you read the Cape Range Management Plan

    http://www.dpaw.wa.gov.au/images/documents/parks/management-plans/decarchive/cape-range-2010-print-and-web.pdf

    you will see that climbing in Pilgonomon Gorge is actually banned, until they have consulted relevant user groups and made an assessment on the impact of climbing on the wallabies.

    The DPAW guy was not very accommodating to us. He made it clear that we were not welcome and had to leave. I would not recommend climbing there for the sake of the climbing community. It seems this guy is going into that gorge daily, and I think he will be pretty pissed off if he sees more climbers there.

    I know Exmouth is a long way away, and is not a popular climbing venue and therefore not a priority for CAWA, but it really does suck that another climbing area is closed, without consultation, and based on no understanding of what we do and what our potential impacts are.

    Anyway you have been warned

    #127389 Reply
    Douglas Hockly
    Guest

    Thanks very much for the info! That’s a shame. Is there any other climbing in the area?

    #129586 Reply
    Goshen Watts
    Guest

    that’s sad to hear. I’ll be there in about a week and would keen to catch up if you’re still there? even a bit of bouldering or something if roped climbing’s a no-no.

    #133488 Reply
    Goshen Watts
    Guest

    Thought I’d share a few notes of my climbing (when not on the wonderful beaches) of Cape Range Nat Park.

    We camped at 1k Camp (was free and very quiet) just south of Yardie Creek (need 4WD), as we came up from the south, and just walked up the beach to Yardie creek in the morning.

    Had full knowledge and respect for the off limits conservation zone, which starts part way along the gorge rim walk, and includes all of the Southern side of the gorge. However, that did leave a short section of limestone worth checking out.

    About 150m or so from where the gorge walk starts up the rough track, is a shallow gully that leads down to the water. Start from here, and traverse just above the high tide mark for about 150m or so. It’s shallow to start, but gets quite deep after just a few m. About V2, with half dozen or so nice sections – the rest is just a bit of rambling in between. I only found 2 climbs worth doing along the way (that were straight over the deep water, and didn’t have nasty ledges to collect on the way down should you fall off. The first was about half way along (14m, grade 16). The second was towards the end, where an obvious vertical wall exends out of the water. This one is a bit higher and harder (18m, 18) and I did test the water depth first, but a whole lot of fun, and tops you out not far from the track and ‘cliff edge’ sign (just at the 2nd rocky step on the tourist trail). I decided the traverse should end here at this up climb, as any further would get to the rocky beach that is off-limits.

    To be sure this is no deep water soloing destination; but it was an amazing feeling climbing across this terrain on very varied limestone completely out of view of everyone (except the odd canoe), so you can do this very low key. Just don’t go when the tour boat goes.

    I also made a short trip up Pilgonaman gorge, which was amazing – again very quiet, no one around, a few rock wallabies on the southern side. Did a bit of bouldering (yep, there’s no bouldering), and some of those routes look great! Wasn’t going to climb with gear given the access issues, but it was a nice place to check out.

    For what it’s worth, we didn’t see any rock wallaby’s at Yardie Creek, but about 10km south, we walked up to a nondescript ‘micro gorge’ and saw heaps, at least half a dozen. We kept pretty quiet, and they did not seem to be bothered by my rock explorations at all. Perhaps it’s just those noisy tourists and boats that are the real problem! They certainly don’t go about scaling sheer cliffs (there were no rock wallaby droppings on the entire traverse at Yardie Creek).

    Cheers.

    #145594 Reply
    Kaleigh
    Guest

    Hey there,

    I just. Over to exmouth and am in the search of any climbing community..even if it’s just bouldering…lemme know if anyone is out here! :p

    K leigh

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