Current state of affairs

Home Forums Climbing Talk Current state of affairs

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #3708 Reply
    Mark

      In response to the First Ascent section and the new route Buckle Up Spanky…

      Let me first say – bolts and vision by Mark. Stolen by Medicine Meirl and I would say that the Cashew fairy had his hand in it as well… What he had his hand in, I will let the readers decide. Thanks for the name boys. It is about time that Perth climbers did just that. Pony up team.

      While I’m out here sitting on a rig, I’ll cast out a line and see what fish we can catch…

      There are very few out there in the Perth climbing scene putting up new routes and problems. It takes effort and today’s climbing community seems to be content with the feature comforts of a plastic wall and a close by quarry. I read nothing of epics in ROCK, or on this site. Maybe I should write about the day that Emil and I trudged into Millars to bolt those routes. I can guarantee that we were the only climbers in WA, mad enough to be out on the crags as the weather was absolutely foul. I’m not claiming to be a “hard man of WA” climbing. But I will say that I have put considerable time, effort and money into getting out there and seeing what can be climbed around Perth and WA. I can assure readers and climbers alike that there is a mass of unclimbed rock still waiting. A bouldering area like Millars proves this. In fact last weekend a 15m wall of well feature granite was found, and new routes to go. Yes you have to drive 80km to get there. But that is the reason for going climbing. To me it is not a 20min trip to the quarry or the gym to repeat a disturbingly good route. We are not blessed in WA for a wealth of rock both in quality and length. However, good climbing can be had and on real rock. You just have to explore a little.

      There is the argument that all climbers climb for different reasons, blah blah blah. But I guess we all climb for a challenge and I personally see none, if you do not at least entertain the idea of getting outdoors and giving it a go. I see many more climbers projecting a 8m plastic route than an 8m route on some great little boulder at crag X. I ask have we gone soft? And I think the answer is yes. Today’s climbers are introduced to a consumer friendly environment where climbing is safe, easily accessible and “fun”. Well if that’s what you are content with, so be it, but climbing can offer you so much more. Grab a rope, buy some gear, ask someone at the gym to take you out, whatever you do get out on real rock.

      “Would anyone like a nice cup of camomile tea?”

      #3709 Reply
      Mother Nature

        Peace and quiet, with the baggy-shorted hordes popping finger pulleys on disposable bouldering walls…..sounds good to me, buster!

        I want them fat, scared and lazy. It’s my only chance.

        #3710 Reply
        Neil

          I look forward to visiting the 15m high wall of granite.

          I too have wandered past a 15m high wall out the back of Millars (well more or less out the back). I wonder…. 🙂

          There are a number of parties that have spent considerable time exploring Perth bush over the last 10 years. In general, finds are getting less frequent, further a field and slightly shorter than ideal !

          There are at least 2 crags within day-tripable distance still under development. And one crag that has been “released” just prior to Christmas. Unfortunately, the mini-guide hasn’t made it to the net yet, despite being submitted. Interested parties can post their email addresses and I’ll gladly send it through if you’re keen on cranking some 8m epics. Or, check out the cover of the Western Climber…..

          #3711 Reply
          Emil

            Yo Neil. Always keen to sample some more quality WA rock. Hook me up! [email protected]

            Cheers

            #3712 Reply
            Mark

              Looks like a great place Niel. Emil copied me… There are several new cliffs around for those out there for the adventure. If people are keen for new routing on slabs there is a 15-20m wall at the same angle as cutherbert on the north side of Millars, it looks as though it will give 6-8 slab routes if that is your thing. Didn’t have a real good look but…

              The new cag X is nowhere as good as millars but there is some love with the 15m wall a definate highlight..

              Cooke has also had a fair bit of bouldering attention after the hipe of Millars died.

              Glad to see there are a few more underground circles around. There is always the temptation to keep areas to yourself till the sweet lines are taken. But in Perth can we aford this?

              #3713 Reply
              al

                an apparent lack of enthusiasm to crank out new stellar lines? and people these day call themselves climbers.

                I am ALWAYS up to crank some virgin rock, it the raddest. so, if during my 6 week stay in marg river, anyone is keen to find people to develop areas, all i can say is….oh pick me pick me!! i’m REAL handy with a wire brush!

                #3714 Reply
                Neil

                  i think most areas get let out with a few lines left for the punters.

                  that was the case with llama rock and is also wombat rocks.

                  if only google earth was better…. then i could search from home 🙂

                  #3715 Reply
                  Toc

                    Who’s coming to Peak Charles at Easter?

                    #3716 Reply
                    Mark

                      Only one place to be for Easter this year boys and girls that’s East coast. Buckle up spanky tour 2006.

                      #3717 Reply
                      Logan

                        I like the exploration side of things. On my way to china i accidentally landed in a place i have termed “the new land” where i have found bountiful rock and many peaks.

                        By the way is there a pre easter trip going? I can go somewhere between the 3rd and 7th of April?

                        #3718 Reply
                        Edd

                          Hey guys,

                          Where is the East coast trip going to be in April. I shall be in the Arapalies/ Grampians if anyone wishes to join me.

                          Have fun all

                          Edd

                        Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
                        Reply To: Current state of affairs
                        Your information: