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Hi – I did the first ascent of The Dark Tower on Bluff Knoll – probably in 1982.
Anyone else repeated this one yet?
Let me know what you thought of it.
Plus any feed back on my routes on Gibralter Rock in the Porongorups – Apes Den, Main Street, Europa Point, Dockyard Wall etc.
Hi Mike
Jim Truscott sends his regards and would like you to know that he is still climbing hard – though at this point in time he is drinking harder as he happily moves his way through my single malt selection. Jim is now looking introspective and stated that it is was a pity that you both didn’t nail Power Of The Old Land In 1981.
With regards your routes I have done Dockyard Wall and Main Street and few others all bold undertakings and not for the average punter. I don’t think they get many assents these days.
Please send Jim an email at truscott@tower.net.au and we will organise a slide and whisky night with Rathbone in Albany.
Regards
Matt Rosser
I enjoyed Dockyard Wall some 7 years ago, did not find it scary and found some trad gear at the “caves” before one goes up at the end of traverse – I did not think the added bolt was necessary but used it. A good “head” climb with some loose flakes.
Mike – who did the FA of “Riddy Was Here” and has that been repeated ? Again about 7 yrs ago, I absolutely shat my pants there and downclimbed about 60 meters to get to the ground. I could not see how to protect the 2nd pitch from about 20m onwards without knifeblade pitons which I did not have. Riddy might have been there but I ain’t going back. Three stars (old CAWA guide) my arse.
Power of the Old Land was top fun also.
Hi Ross. Good to hear something I did has had a repeat.
Re-Dockyard Wall. Just checked my old guide book – the little brown one for Southern granite – self produced by Richard Rathbone and yours truly. It’s now 30 years since that day Pete Hiscock and I did D.W and Main Street.
Pete led the pitch after the 3rd cave. The belay would not have held a fall. He had disappeared up the groove to the left by about 30 ft when I heard a slithering sound. He had started floating down on a grassy section, and fortunately managed to stop himself after 3 or 4 feet. (Otherwise I wouldn’t be here to write this and enjoy the rest of my life).
When I did the 2nd ascent in ’92 with Gordon Brysland and Peter Cox I decided I wanted to secure the climb for further ascents. I guess that was my prerogative.
As for ‘Riddy was here’. You answered your own question – knife blades. We all carried a selection of pegs and a hammer back then. Maybe that’s still the only way to protect it. (Short of bolting it, which would probably have to be Dave’s or my prerogative again, I’m too busy here in Vancouver now. Dave still climbs with the oldies there though.) It seldom dries enough for anyone to find out.
It was attempted by Pete Riddy, Michael Adams and John Watson in October ’74. Dave James and I finished it off the same year I think. 3 stars? I think we were just so happy to get up it that we figured it must have been a good climb. Perhaps the security of knife blades added to it’s quality as well.
I havn’t heard of a second ascent, though I’m not likely to hear if it was done by other than the old gang. ‘Mac’ McArthur may know. He and I had a look on my visit in ’92 but it was so wet the moss was peeling off in great slabs on the approach.
Good to hear from you. Happy (and safe)climbing.
