“Destination Unknown” at Mountain Quarry

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16 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9892 Reply
Neil
Destination Unknown 20m, 24

Start between “Shield of Achilles” and “Barren Awakening”. Stick clip the first bolt. Follow expansion bolts and climb up! Lower off fixed biner on 2nd last bolt and lower off ring at last bolt. Delicate, technical and surprisingly good climbing. No idea how this line survived so long without being bolted. Sneaky foot work will get you past the starting moves to a quarry classic mantle. Then a technical crux at the underclings where body position not biceps are the key. Delicate R&R Master slab climbing takes you to the finish.

Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill. June 2011.

A 2nd pitch or link up with BA or even SoA awaits. But someone else can trundle the death block on BA…..since I trundled my own death block when bolting this route.

As for the grade, well I am sure Emil will downgrade it, so get in quick while it’s 24
18 December 2011 at 9:10 PM #11893 Reply
Peter T
Hmmmm, me n Danilo had a bash at top-roping this today. Sans beta or pre-chalked holds, it was desperate. OK it was quite hot (afternoon sun), and our feet were slipping a bit, all the same we reckoned 25. But it’s good, and I’m keen to have a proper go at it when it’s cooler. Most of the moves should be do-able with the holds/smears marked and the sequences worked out. Nice work guys!
19 December 2011 at 5:50 PM #11896 Reply
Ryan
Holds/smears marked…. come on how about learning the climb not colouring it in. Let the rest of us enjoy figuring out the tricks to unlocking the climb. If you do insist on marking holds please clean them off.
20 December 2011 at 9:55 AM #11898 Reply
Neil
yeah it is pretty hard to spot the hold up and right that you go to at the end of the crux (especially as there is no bolt to dog from)

i can’t imagine this route sees many suitors – so tick away !
16 January 2012 at 9:36 AM #12146 Reply
Ross
Having had a very dismal bash on this on Sunday, I recon it is 25 (solid) also. It makes SOA just left of it look like a comfy jugfest!! Mid-summer is not a good time to try the smears….. 🙁

Your other new route just left of “Orange Druggie” is superduper BTW. About 20.
16 January 2012 at 5:38 PM #12151 Reply
AndrewP
Nice gym climb to the right of MullUp. Heaps of shiney hangers. Nice little jump up to the chipped hold. quite consistent, some great moves.
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