Home Forums Climbing Talk Do not climb Fear No Evil at the Gap

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  • #4870 Reply

    To avoid a possible epic, do not climb Fear No Evil at the Gap until further notice.

    After climbing 10m or so past the belay on friday, past a few worthless pieces, I was relieved when I reached the bolt (FH) protecting a few tricky looking moves through the blank section above. It looked a bit rusty so I gave it a tug. The tug snapped the hanger.

    The bolt is crucial, so best avoid this climb until someone replaces the bolt (i will do this on the next fine weekend if I can convince anyone to join me)

    #4871 Reply

    Sir, could you maybe help me with some research I am doing for a novel?

    I need a location near Avon valley,(best in AVNP) where my hero can make a dangerous looking climb, that is not insane to do for someone with reasonable training. COUld you direct me? I have never been to Australia, but I have moved myself in a corner over my timeline, so it had to be the other side of the equator. Could you get back to me at sonja.corterier@freenet.de? ( I have read the span warning but it is that Important for me ;-))

    I would be VERY thankful for a specific spot maybe even with a short description of the climb, if possible, BUt I know I am asking for that help, with nothing more to offer, than a mentioning in the preface, if i ever get the thing published.

    #4872 Reply

    gee owen,

    you’re in for sure !!!!

    #4873 Reply
    shane shaw

    Excuse me being ignorant, however can you please explain to me. When you bolt a climbing route do you use a special drill or just a hand drill or can you please explain the process of how you do it and what tools and materials you use. the reason being I am very interested in how this is done.

    thank you

    shane shaw


    #4874 Reply

    Hand hammer drills or rotary hammer drills either petrol or battery powered, these are serious beasts. You could use something with a lead if you could get a gen set close enough. It would upset everybody within earshot. Don’t suggest you go out doing this unless you have had some experience with someone else and fully understand what you are doing both in the actual drilling and bolting and the whole business of discovering and creating of new lines, in fact please don’t go out and do it unless you understand all of that. Badly bolted lines are a blight and even down right dangerous and if you bolt something you shouldn’t you WILL realy annoy people who may even come and chop your bolts.



    #4875 Reply
    shane shaw

    thanks for the info mate, I actually have no intention of drilling any holes so you can be reassured, I was only interested in how it as actually done out of curiosity. I have used hilti’s and hammer drills in concrete before and was wonderiong how u manage to drill holes wilst climbing into granite and rock. thanks for the info. And when I get a bit more experienced I will tag along with an expert and see how it is done

    thanks again mate

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