Do Not Down Grade Climbs with a Drill

Home Forums Climbing Talk Do Not Down Grade Climbs with a Drill

  • This topic has 10 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 16 years ago by Ross.
Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #6273 Reply
    Charlie

      I heard today that a route at mountain quarry i have been working on and climbing the crux with difficulty was about to be or has been altered with a drill. I will not name names yet as this is to be confirmed! If you have a problem with the grade, change the grade to 26 do not drill it to what you think 25 should be! Maybe you should train a little harder, and training is not hanging on a rope with a drill. Maybe you should drill Cardiofunk so we can all climb 29 nuf said

      #6274 Reply
      mike

        which climb charlie and why was it going to be altered?

        #6275 Reply
        charlie

          Thanks Mike,

          I am yet to confirm it has happend as i heard it may well of take place yesterday the 29th The route is 2 to the right of power play on skywalker wall grade 25 and should stay that way as it was first climbed in the early 90’s

          #6276 Reply
          charlie

            It was to be altered because supposed climber has difficulty with the crux I thought that was the reason to train harder maybe i should buy a drill to climb harder not a gym membership

            #6277 Reply
            George

              Sounds like Neils project, which is 2 on from Power PLay. I would be surprised if someone is chipping an already established route. Where are you getting your info from charlie??, sounds slightly bogus!, but if your right lets have ourselves a good old fashioned linching:)

              #6278 Reply
              Shannon

                As far as I saw, Kate sent the Proj today, did some drilling after, doubt it was enhancing the hold, I think just putting a bolt in a better spot.

                #6279 Reply
                Ross

                  I think maybe he means 2 climbs LEFT of PP as that’s where the Skywalker Wall is and all the routes from the 80s/90s. Could be Star Wars, which is now much harder than it was when it was first put up. Many holds have fallen off due to the DEC stabilisation and subsequent cleanup, and even beforehand. The crux is now last move…there are just no decent footholds for the dyno any more. The middle bit is v.hard also. Anyway, I have no interest in this and it is not me who has any intentions. I just think that SW is now a 25, ie far bit harder than HangTen. Anybody done SW lately? What do you think?

                  #6280 Reply
                  Logan

                    I have done star wars many times since it was cleaned up. Very nice. What dyno? a worthwhile 24 not a gimme for sure but still 24. Dont chip!

                    #6281 Reply
                    Richard W

                      George and myself cleaned and re-bolted Star Wars. Yes Hard but definately plenty there. Have watched it been red pointed numerous times since we recently re-bolted. Most certainly a no touch zone as is Premature Evacuation next to it.

                      #6282 Reply
                      Shannon

                        Hi, Climbed Star wars today, I did not get it clean but feels about 24. a mate got the onsite today and he agrees. Nothing looks as though it has been “enhanced” though, at least not in the couple of years.

                        #6283 Reply
                        Ross

                          OK, 24. Peter T also did it 2 weeks ago and agrees. I need to get onto it. Top climb, bit more endurance than Hang 10.

                        Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
                        Reply To: Do Not Down Grade Climbs with a Drill
                        Your information: