- This topic has 22 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 10 years, 9 months ago by Wilson.
8 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9636Mike (R)Guest
I just sent in an update of Dreaded. The original one on Mushy’s site has Area 1, Area 2, and Breadloaf Boulder. This one has Powerlines (Area 3), Outpost (Area 4) and the Frontline Boulder. This brings the total number of problems up to about 30. The trouble is they are spread out over a pretty big area. Maybe you could do a few good ones at each area and make a circuit with a short hike between each set.
The new problems are all V3 or easier. The grades could be off. Any feedback would be taken. There are lots of projects which would be harder. Some of the projects have hardly been looked at while others got tried a fair bit. Some might be worthless but there are definitely a couple of really good projects to go (especially the two on the Frontline boulder). The idea was just to make it the opposite of a ‘secret area’ and number a lot of possibly interesting things and if anyone does them we can add them into another update.
There looks like some good problems to be added at Area 2 as well but I didn’t at any of that in since those areas were covered in Mushy’s guide already.
I would like to have done more but I’m leaving the country again soon for a while and thought I’d just share what we’ve done for those who are interested.
Mike8 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9637Mark WeatherillMember
Mike, the new guide has lots of really helpful photos and I’m really keen to post it. However it currently references Mushy’s guide for directions. I would prefer the mini-guides to be self sufficient (unless referencing a published guidebook). Can you incorporate directions etc into your guide so that it becomes the definitive resource for Dreaded Boulders?8 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9638Mike (R)Member
I can add directions but wasn’t thinking of it as the “definitive guide” to Dreaded since Mushy’s one was first, and has great problems. It was intended as an add on to that or to be used together with that… I’ll add directions though (but I thought it was already getting too long!)
It’s just supposed to be new problems and projects (and areas) to an already existing area…
anyway, I’ll add directions.
Mike8 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9639MushyMember
I’m happy to add photo’s with the problems listed etc along with the existing dreaded info on my site.
I can be emailed on choonz(at)iinet.net.au
Good work by the way Mike good to see other out exploring for new area’s and problems29 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9640Mike (R)Member
I sent that little guide update in about 3 weeks ago. Not sure what happened. Or if anything is happening.2 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9641Tyrone CMember
Dangy, I plan to head out that way again in a week or so and would have liked to have seen the updated version. I have only climbed in area 1/2/breadloaf. Is there any way you can flick me the details of the other areas/climbs (firstname.lastname@example.org)?
would be much appreciated.2 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9642Mike (R)Member
I’ll email it to ya3 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9643Tyrone C.Member
Awesome man, i got it! Thanks hey, should make this time round a little more interesting! I’ll let you know how we go!
Cheers again.3 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9644Mike (R)Member
Good one. Put up some new stuff and I’ll add it right in.
M3 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9645Mark WeatherillMember
Hi Mike, I’m working with the new committee about your update and will try get it resolved shortly.3 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9646Tyrone C.Member
For sure man! I’ll take photos and if i think they are ned routes i’ll edit the pics and send em your way. Climb safe!3 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9647Tyrone C.Member
ned = new*5 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9648Mark WeatherillMember
Hi Mike, I have posted your Dreaded guide on the mini-guides page. Thanks for sending it in.5 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9649Mike (R)Member
No worries. It’s only small but adds something. Now if we can just get Waly’s guide, Deadgoat and Eldorado, New Hills Area (whatever it’s called) and whatever else is out there we’ll be cookin…5 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9650Luke BMember
Looks like some worthy lines, well done Mike!6 May 2011 at 12:00 AM #9651Tyrone C.Member
Agreed! Cheers again for opening up that area some more. Can’t wait to try them out next week!7 September 2011 at 12:00 AM #9652Matt JMember
Went out this morning using your guide. Very helpful and we repeated most of the problems in there.
We also put up some new lines that haven’t been recorded in your guide, most of them on the big slab at the outpost area.
These have most probably been done before as warm ups but ill list anyway.
First route is appox 2m left of the yellow warm up in your guide- short and VE/V0
Second is between route above and your yellow warm up- again probably V0
1m to the right of yellow warm up and just before the crack- V0
1m right of the crack using small crimps- V1
1m to the right again- balancy using small crimps.
Also purple project in the outpost area went today at about V2/V3.
Don’t mind if these don’t get published just extending the guide a little bit.
Cheers7 September 2011 at 12:00 AM #9653Mike (R)Member
That’s cool, glad you had a good morning. I’ll definitely add those problems to the mini guide. You got any names for any of the more memorable ones? like the V1 and the purple line V2/3?
Did you try any of the projects at the Frontline boulder? They seem pretty hard… lots of the “projects” we hadn’t even worked on but I wanted to share some of the stuff out there… glad you used it. Tyrone put up a new V4 (Waking the Yeti) at area 2 that I’ll add in later too… a bit to the left of Inner Vision…
good job anyway.7 September 2011 at 12:00 AM #9654Matt JMember
For the climb 1m right of the crack on the big face
Name: Little nothings- V1 FA: Matt J
For the climb 1m right of that again
Name: Sweet little nothings- V1 FA Glen Maras
And the purple line- deserves 2/3 stars in my opinion
Name: Trivector- V2/3 FA Jon Benwell
The projects on the frontline boulder look hard!
We were looking at them, but only had one pad. We will be taking 3 pads out next week so will definitely have a go at them. Problem 31 in your guide book is begging for an ascent; would be an amazing line and a true test piece.
Problem 2 in powerlines will go next week at V5??, have the beta for it just need to put it together.
Hopefully will get the time to develop this area a bit more, there is so much around there.
Cheers7 September 2011 at 12:00 AM #9655Mike (R)Member
Awesome. I’ll add that in… Definitely want to do Trivector when I get back. I don’t think we even tried it and I just noticed the line when looking at pictures for the guide later.
Yeah, #31 looked very cool but I wasn’t sure if it would go… I reckon do a little gardening and even shift a couple of those rocks underneath and it would be a much better landing… bit of elbow grease though
we did work on #2 a bit and I thought it would go soon but we didn’t have the time… glad someone will get (but secretly I wish I could have nabbed it first 🙂
anyway, onya!26 May 2013 at 12:06 PM #105081WilsonGuest
Wondering if the crack project next to inner vision at area 2 has been claimed yet? Went out and got it yesterday morning.
Tried the left face variant as well, some flaky holds but looks like it will go with a little work.
Cheers,30 May 2013 at 10:05 PM #106703Mike (R)Guest
As far as I know you nabbed the FA, Wilson… I’ve been out of the country for two and a half years though so I could be wrong. What did you dub it and what’s the grade?
When I worked a little on that face project I ripped off a huge flake and took a pretty big fall and roll. MIT be a bit chossy, I forget now.
I was just thinking about Perth bouldering and wishing I could do a bit… Oh well, next year.7 June 2013 at 2:56 PM #106873WilsonGuest
Awesome, I’d say V3 “Russell’s Mum” F.A Wilson Tucker.
Keen to give the left wall another try as well. We managed to pull a bit more loose rock off but there’s still a few solid holds left. The landing could be better but I guess that adds to the appeal haha.