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    I have just doe the Stirling Range ridge walk, and wondered if anyone has ever done any climbing/ if there are any established routes on the north face of Ellen Peak. Its a big face, but i am not sure about the quality of the rock, as it was almost fogged in at the time.

    #110870 Reply

    see below from 2006

    I don’t think this line has been done. However I didn’t scour the archives so I would appreciate if anyone could let me know. I attempted this route in 1999 with Richard Woodman but we were put off by loose rock – there is some tatt left from when we retreated after pitch 1. On return, I found that the rock quality is on par with many Stirlings adventure routes. Take your big cams.

    Mudwrestling 140m grade 17

    The obvious arching corner on the lower NW face of Ellen Peak. A great line with some nice climbing amid much classic Stirlings choss. Approach by walking along the base of the N face until just before the point at which the N face becomes the NW face (just before the walking track begins heading uphill again). Start climbing on slabs below the pointed prow at approx 30m height, then follow obvious massive right trending arch/corner.

    Pitch 1. 40m grade 16: head up slabs aiming for large pointed prow and base of arch/corner system. When ledge at the base of the prow is reached (after approx 30m), head up corner on the L of prow. Belay on large ledge on top of boulder.

    Pitch 2. 35m grade 17 (crux): head straight up corner for 5-10m, then into wide, overhanging squeeze, being careful of rotten rock (it looked possible, perhaps preferable, to avoid the squeeze by traversing R under overhang at the base of squeeze, but we stuck to the obvious line). Continue following the line and belay on one of many ledges.

    Pitch 3: 35m grade 16: airy traversing under the arch, along a ledge system until the point at which the arch ends and a gully is reached. Belay here.

    Pitch 4: 30m grade 12: follow your nose straight up the L side of gully. Belay at the end of the technical climbing.

    Then scramble to the summit.

    F.A. Owen Davis and Nick Hobson, 7 May 2006

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