Essential routes at Arapiles

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This topic contains 7 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Pesty 1 year, 12 months ago.

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  • #158189 Reply


    A group of us are organising a week-long trip to Arapiles late this year. It’s my first time there and I’m yet to purchase the local climbing guide (though it’s on the list), but reviewing the area on The Crag leaves me a little overwhelmed for choice with literally thousands of routes. I’m happy climbing trad up to about grade 18, though to be perfectly honest I’d be more inclined toward 16 (especially multipitch routes). Our group has decent experience on multi-pitch trad, courtesy of a few trips to Bluff Knoll.

    Does anyone with experience of Arapiles have some recommendations within regards to the “essential” routes to look at, and/or some logical circuits or sequences of routes? I’m keen to sample as many difference routes as possible, and I’m perfectly happy to smash out a bunch of grade 12 routes over a single 20, if they happen to be classics. Alternatively, any tips from past visitors for how to get the most out of a 5-6 day visit to the site?

    Thanks in advance!

    #158190 Reply

    Ross Weiter

    I could make lists but if you just get the guide and follow the star-ratings then you wont go wrong.
    One thing that is not in the guide so much is the crowding of the routes. The further you walk away from camp and Organ Pipes the less busy it will be. And another thing, there are some very tricky gr 18 cracks….. 🙂

    #158191 Reply


    Thanks, Ross. Good thought about getting away from the main campsite. We’re planning to be there a number of days midweek on the assumption that the weekends will be a lot busier. I will weep bitter tears if I don’t get to look at Watchtower Crack due to traffic.

    #158193 Reply


    Lamplighter, Muldoon and The Bard are all STEEP and good, grade <14. Fun no matter how hard you climb.
    Resignation a bit overrated IMO. Tiptoe ridge fantastic.

    Watchtower, Skink, Brolga all pretty special if you head over that way.

    Three star 18’s and above are well worth the effort. Having said that, start on Marri (17) and see how you go.

    I think 18-22 is the sweet spot at Arapiles. Y

    Logical sequences…. there are plenty. A little hard to give you good tips since I am not sure what routes you want to do. Look for single pitch stuff above the finish of your multi is normally handy. e.g Resignation->Ivan->Blockbuster.

    Or Watchtower -> Siamese Crack -> Claw
    Or Muldoon -> Agamemnon -> Female Friends

    #158194 Reply


    Thanks for the recommendations, Neil. I’m compiling a wish list, and these will go on it. Not wanting to take all the spontaneity out of the trip, but it’s nice to do a bit of planning when you go somewhere with so much to do.

    #158196 Reply


    Saracen is a cracking multipitch 16. Agamemnon is a must do, the second pitch is a blast.

    #158206 Reply


    Thanks Ang, I’ll put them on the list. It’s a long list.

    #158334 Reply


    Toccata is a worthwhile 15 on the Organ Pipes. Don’t forget Tanin.

    The Brolga holds a special place in my heart. DO NOT MISS LAMPLIGHTER.

    Oh, to be a climber again 😉

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