- This topic has 15 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 7 months ago by egne.
18 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9334egneGuest
HI guys, i’ve decided to take my climbing outdoors and was thinking of either going to mountain quarry or statham’s. I’ve read some of the past posts but i’m still a little uncertain about some things. I went out and bought a couple of gear that I was told I needed.
12 x 17cm quickdraws
2 x 120cm slings
2 x 60cm slings
4 x oval locking carabiners
I also read that I needed bolt hangers but i’m not sure how many or which types to get. Is 6 pfh 90degrees and 4 pfh degrees sufficient to climb all, if not most of the routes in the quarries? Would I need a descending/rappel ring. If so, how many? Are there lower offs on all routes? Or are there just two bolts on top in which case do I just use two quickdraws to set up an anchor?
Thanks!19 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9335Luke BKeymaster
The equipment needed for Statham’s and MQ varies depending on the route – have a good look at the miniguides (in the ‘Climb’ menu on this website), and scope out the route before you get on it.
Most of the bolted routes have double ringbolt loweroffs – check before you climb. If you want to do any toproping, run the rope through one of your own biners to avoid wearing out the rings.
As for the runners: some routes have ringbolts (aka P bolts) which are wonderful, you can clip the draw straight into them, a few have fixed hangers (also clip directly into), and the rest will be machine hex heads which need removable hangers like the PFHs. Keep an eye out for dodgy looking bolts (ie. carrots), and don’t use them unless you trust them. Bolts have been known to fall out at Perth quarries. Here is a list of recently rebolted routes in WA: http://www.chockstone.org/Rebolting/RoutesWA.asp
It doesn’t *really* matter which removable hangers you get, as long as they fit over the bolt head easily (not always the case, others with more experience can offer advice here) and feel okay to clip. I like 45 degrees personally. Get as many hangers as there are bolts on the routes you want to climb, 10 is plenty for most routes.
Unless you’re doing a lot of abseiling, a standard ATC belay device will be fine for rapping off routes, and is a bit more secure when you need to lock it off to retrieve draws etc.
Make sure you know how to safely thread the rope through the loweroffs! There are plenty of online guides.
Most of the loose holds have either been pulled off or reinforced on the popular routes, but it might pay to wear a helmet (and one for your belayer too).19 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9336Luke BKeymaster
One other thing to mention: some routes at the quarries are semi-trad affairs. Unless you have trad gear, check the number of bolts is proportional to the length of the route!
Have fun!19 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9337NumbatKeymaster
6 – 8 quickdraws should be enough for most climbs, plus s few long slings and some locking cracks. Plus rope and all your other climbing gear of course!
At MQ and SQ most climbs are bolted with GIMBs so you need 6 – 8 bolt-plates. It’s a good idea to have a few different types – some will not fit on some of the bolts. Some climbs (mostly the 24+) have ring-bolts.
Most, but not all climbs have ring-bolt or two GIMB lower-offs at the top. It’s a good idea to have a long piece of tape or static (5 – 10 metres) for some of the climbs as either a back-up or to set up the belay at the top.
If you intend on climbing up and then feeding the rope through the ring-bolts at the top, it’s a good idea to practice first somewhere safe – at MQ there is a boulder near the Mull-up Wall with a couple of ring-bolts in it.
For access to the quarries you to need to phone the Perth Hill’s National Park Centre on 9295 2244 and book and get the gate code. The centre is open 9 – 5 weekdays and I think 10 – 4 or so weekends. Don’t park outside the quarry unless you want new windows for you car. The NP centre justs asks your name, contact number and how many people. They’ll also tell you if there are any other people booked – sometimes the Scouts or Adventure Out or someone will have a booking and there’ll be 30 screaming kids there, so it’s good to know where to avoid!
Don’t forget that there’s also heaps of great climbing at Churchman’s Brook, Darlington, Shark Rock, LLama Rock, Mt Cuthbert….. But some of these are trad, so you’ll need cams and nuts as well.
Have fun!19 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9338Mark WeatherillKeymaster
Luke, the mini-guides for Mountain and Stathams Quarry have been removed as they have been superseded by the Perth Rock Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. We will of course publish any mini-guides that cover new climbs not included in the guidebook.20 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9339egneKeymaster
Thank you guys! I’ll definitely be getting myself a guide book and probably an experienced climber during my first time out.20 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9340Luke BKeymaster
Cheers Mark, guess I should’ve checked that!21 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9341hazeldogKeymaster
I am there 3 times a week, when are you going?24 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9342egneKeymaster
Hazeldog – I’ll be heading to Mountain quarries soon when i’ve gathered all my gear. Perhaps you can show me how to set up the top anchor?
Does anyone know where I can find a Fixe Stainless Steel Rappel Ring in Perth? I’ve only seen in on climbinganchors.com.au24 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9343TomKeymaster
Egne, Rap rings are usually used where gear is to be left behind. Doesn’t apply around Perth. If you’re worried about wear on alloy biners then get a steel screwgate. Enjoy the outdoors.26 March 2011 at 12:00 AM #9344calKeymaster
I believe that some of the most important pieces of gear on a climbers harness are prussiks and the knowledge of how to use them. do some research on your rescues before hitting the crag, especially if your planning on multipitching! Enjoy!6 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9345egneKeymaster
Hello again guys! Can anyone tell me if my method of cleaning the top anchor is safe? Let’s assume that the top anchor is a dbb with two hanging quickdraws which were previously used for lowering.
1. Clip sling (girth hitched to harness) to one of the dbb with a locking biner.
2. Unclip rope from both quick draws.
3. Pull up about 6 feet of rope, tie a munter hitch and clip it on one of the quickdraws (just incase I drop the rope, or i could tie a figure8 on a bight)
4. Untie figure eight from harness and feed through the other dbb.
5. Remove munter hitch and continue feeding rope until both ends touch the ground.
6. Put both strand of rope through belay/rappel tube (atc).
7. Pull up and get on rappel.
8. Remove quickdraws and unclip sling.
Can anybody see anything wrong with the above steps?
Thanks!7 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9346daveKeymaster
best to clip in with two slings one on each lower off when starting off encase you take off a sling instead of a quickdraw and have no extra support or if one of the ring bolts fail you have a back up (just one method). just one point. worth going with someone experienced and have your belayer check off everything you are doing step by step first time.7 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9347Mark WeatherillKeymaster
Egne, I try to avoid unclipping the quickdraws or untying the rope until threaded through the bolts. This means that if a bolt fails then I am still protected (though may have a few meter drop).
Once my sling is clipped, I will pinch the rope to thread through the bolts and tie a figure 8. I clip into the figure 8 and then untie my original knot and unclip the draws. It can sometime be difficult squeezing the doubled rope through the ring bolts but rarely impossible.7 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9348RyanKeymaster
egne, i would say your 9 steps are pretty solid bar one thing. try to never rely on one ring bolt, so clip into both with 2 seperate slings(one sling per bolt), and later feed your rope thru BOTH ring bolts to rappel off. This way if at any point should either one bolt fail (unlikely but possible), you are backed up by the other.
Happy climbing, and remember, climbing in the outdoors is nothing like being in a gym, its way better! and a little scaryier…8 April 2011 at 12:00 AM #9349egneKeymaster
Great! Thanks for the feedback. See you all at the crags!