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Home Forums First Ascents Four new routes in Mac’s Back Yard

  • This topic has 6 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 1 year ago by marcus.
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  • #3569 Reply
    Jim Truscott
    Guest

    Mac’s Back Yard

    Continue 200 metres past Bungendore Crag and head uphill at the track side cairn until you reach the right hand end of a compact crag, which actually goes for a few hundred metres further long the valley.

    BBQ Stopper 16 18m

    Interesting mantle at half-height. 2BR to thread belay. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 6 Feb 05

    Reckless and Irresponsible 16 18m

    Pleasant jug hauling. 2BR and natural pro to thread belay. J. Truscott, M Rosser 6 Feb 05

    Jeriatric 15/16? 18m

    Go up from the diagonal crack. The first ascent was memorable for an artery splitting event. J. MacGill in rigger’s boots, R. McArthur circa mid 90s

    The Doctor’s Route 15? 18m

    Awkward looking start. K. Meadows circa early 90s.

    #3570 Reply
    Ross
    Keymaster

    I know this one, have soloed a couple of lines there in the past, incl. Geriatriac I think, have backed off the crux of what could be BBQ Stopper.

    Any punters please note that there is a 20 minute walk plus 20 minute uphill bushbash to get to this crag, and while the crag can be said to go for several hundred meters the only section worth climbing is about 20 m long.

    May the carrots rust in peace.

    #3571 Reply
    Glenn
    Keymaster

    Hi Matt and Jim:

    One quick question – did you use glue in machine bolts or bashed in carrots?

    (or neither)

    Cheers

    Glenn

    #3572 Reply
    Ross
    Keymaster

    They only use carrots.

    #3573 Reply
    glenn
    Keymaster

    Do you mean bash in carrots which are not glued? The reason i ask is I would like to do a little experimentation on the pull out strength of bolts in the field.

    I am not certainly not trying to have-a-go at Jim or Matt. They are the the most active new-routes we have and are fine chaps to boot.

    #3574 Reply
    Ross
    Keymaster

    I meant bash in carrots.

    Note that carrots are only ever bash-in. The glued-in variety is not filed into a carrot shape so that is better called “glued-in machine bolts”.

    Previous tests on pull out strength were published in Rock Magazine many years ago, the New Routes book in Mt.Designs Perth had photocopies of that article. Those tests showed that gued in bolts are several times stronger in pull out strength. However note that falls almost never apply 100% pull out force (the carrot would have to be installed in a roof!) so 100% pullout tests are not very meaningful basis for comparison, me thinks. having said that, all my bolts are glued anyway as the consensus today is that this is safer. By consensus I mean what most other people do and tell me. WA seems to be an oddity, but then Aust. itself is a climbing oddity, with hangerless bolts and all….

    #208951 Reply
    marcus
    Guest

    Hi just wondering if you could share a location for this small crag, I know its in the area of wungong, but not 100% sure where.

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