Home › Forums › First Ascents › Four new routes in Mac’s Back Yard
- This topic has 6 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 4 months ago by
marcus.
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Jim Truscott
GuestMac’s Back Yard
Continue 200 metres past Bungendore Crag and head uphill at the track side cairn until you reach the right hand end of a compact crag, which actually goes for a few hundred metres further long the valley.
BBQ Stopper 16 18m
Interesting mantle at half-height. 2BR to thread belay. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 6 Feb 05
Reckless and Irresponsible 16 18m
Pleasant jug hauling. 2BR and natural pro to thread belay. J. Truscott, M Rosser 6 Feb 05
Jeriatric 15/16? 18m
Go up from the diagonal crack. The first ascent was memorable for an artery splitting event. J. MacGill in rigger’s boots, R. McArthur circa mid 90s
The Doctor’s Route 15? 18m
Awkward looking start. K. Meadows circa early 90s.
Ross
KeymasterI know this one, have soloed a couple of lines there in the past, incl. Geriatriac I think, have backed off the crux of what could be BBQ Stopper.
Any punters please note that there is a 20 minute walk plus 20 minute uphill bushbash to get to this crag, and while the crag can be said to go for several hundred meters the only section worth climbing is about 20 m long.
May the carrots rust in peace.
KeymasterHi Matt and Jim:
One quick question – did you use glue in machine bolts or bashed in carrots?
(or neither)
Cheers
Glenn
KeymasterThey only use carrots.
KeymasterDo you mean bash in carrots which are not glued? The reason i ask is I would like to do a little experimentation on the pull out strength of bolts in the field.
I am not certainly not trying to have-a-go at Jim or Matt. They are the the most active new-routes we have and are fine chaps to boot.
KeymasterI meant bash in carrots.
Note that carrots are only ever bash-in. The glued-in variety is not filed into a carrot shape so that is better called “glued-in machine bolts”.
Previous tests on pull out strength were published in Rock Magazine many years ago, the New Routes book in Mt.Designs Perth had photocopies of that article. Those tests showed that gued in bolts are several times stronger in pull out strength. However note that falls almost never apply 100% pull out force (the carrot would have to be installed in a roof!) so 100% pullout tests are not very meaningful basis for comparison, me thinks. having said that, all my bolts are glued anyway as the consensus today is that this is safer. By consensus I mean what most other people do and tell me. WA seems to be an oddity, but then Aust. itself is a climbing oddity, with hangerless bolts and all….
marcus
GuestHi just wondering if you could share a location for this small crag, I know its in the area of wungong, but not 100% sure where.
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