RAVEN Gr15***

Takes the sinuous line to the right of Mainstreet and around 50m left of Sucked in Ben. There are fixed hangers on all bolts with lower off’s at the end of each pitch and comfortable belays. Take a dozen quickdraws and some slings. As of the long pitch lengths a 60m rope is recommended.

Pitch 1, 40m.

Start just right of Mainstreet at the short steep crack, up this then trend left to belay in scoop. 9 brs DBB.

Pitch 2, 43m.

Climb slightly right of the water streak to belay in the right side of the second cave. 8 brs DBB

Pitch 3, 45m.

Exit cave on right (crux) and up towards left of the last cave then through overlap. 10 brs DBB

Pitch 4, 48m.

Straight up, then cross over to the left of the water runnel. 10 brs DBB

Pitch 5, 40+m.

Scramble past a few brs to the summit.

Route by John Herlihy, Kym Hartley and Jim Nevin.

Feb 2010. FA includes Andreas Roilo

Enjoy 🙂

Access has been improved by devoted hardmen but traffic is needed. Follow the vehicle track by foot that starts at the carpark near the large flat slab and heads south west. Continue along this past the creek bed and up the rise eventually getting to some blue tape on your left. Head straight through the bush towards gib rock following the vague weakness and pink tape.. When you get through a short section of thicker bush to the clearing amble up and slightly left. The track gets to the rock on the right of illusions of grandeur where mainstreet and raven start.

Thanks Kym and John. Sounds great and will be very much looking forward to climbing it soon.

And we thought we were climbing “Sucked in Ben” 😉 No wonder the move out of the cave on pitch 3 seemed tough for a grade of 12! Excellent day out. Some difficult rope pulls on the abseil down same route but otherwise fun slab climbing. The odd loose flake and sore toes on the last couple of pitches. Belay cave at pitch 2 an oasis of shade (and stocked with can of tuna and fork).

Should have read your post on access before leaving. We heading off on slabs to the east (left) of the scenic road turnoff and traversed up and across to arrive at Dockyard wall. Hard going.

Glad to hear you enjoyed it Andy. The lower offs are really just there to get you down if the weather takes a turn for the worst. The walk is a better option for sure as the rope drag is pretty bad. Dena, the road has a turning circle near the large flat slab near Angwin Peak, you cant miss it.