Grade 29?

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  • #8396 Reply
    Ross

      As I labour along with the Guide, I have come across a bewildering collection of gr.29 climbs on the Hang Ten Buttress in MQ. Six climbs are graded 29, none 28 or 30. What gives?

      The routes: Antitrust, Production Line, Above the Trust, Cardiofunk, Black Ambience and Animalistic Rage are all graded 29. Is this agreed? I know the 2nd/3rd/4th route and 5th/6th share the same start and one could argue the same crux but still, it seems a bit weird. Is Black Ambience as hard as Cardio….and if so then why nobody seems to get to the top?…only 2 ascents 15 years? Any comments? I don’t mean to split hairs but it just seems wrong.

      #8397 Reply
      Logan

        Cardio is the classic 29 which i think is on the money. Antitrust has the same crux really with a dirty weird end and doesnt see many people. Above the trust is also similar to cardio but i seem to remember ripping off the main undercling block at the top which i am not sure was ever replaced. Production line still has all its holds? but is just a ladder on small holds with a massive span at the top which is greater than my span and you cant dyno. Its not to bad if you have the reach. black ambiance is an unknown and i may have heard of a hold coming and going near the top (its easy till the last boulder). This needs an ascent to validate it but doesnt get much attention. If it was bolted with rings it might do? Animalistic rage is again a balancy reachy thing which i havent had a go at since i cant do cranial void due to balancey stand tall reaches. Either way styles vary a bit but if your climbing 29 you can have a bash at them all.

        #8398 Reply
        Logan

          Also i think animalistic starts up cranial not black ambiance.

          #8399 Reply
          tom

            I say downgrade them all to 27

            😉

            reminiscent of Kim’s effort

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