Home Forums Climbing Talk Inner Space at Willys

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    Ang
    Guest

    Anyone been on Inner Space recently? I was there last weekend to see if the crux hold (that little triangle towards the right on the bulge)was still there and it doesn’t seem to be. There is a sort of fresh lighter grey patch where it used to be (unless I have alzheimers,not out of the question, but have climbed this route enough times). Was told it was yanked off earlier this year.

    Bounced about on top rope but couldn’t nut out a line befitting the grade 17 attached to this route. Found a weird move that would work with a bit more reach and grunt to pull off a desperate slapping fit on to the slopey crease over the top.

    Feedback?

    #8497 Reply
    Mark Steele
    Member

    Been gone for a few weeks that hold. Friends have done a direct finish around grade 20/21 they think. Escape route off to the right.

    Was one of my first ever routes @ wilys. Shame the hold is gone.Will be back soon to inspect mmore closely.

    #8498 Reply
    Richard
    Member

    I don’t recall an triangular hold. The finish requires getting a foot onto the last handhold and standing up using the trailing leg to push yourself against the face. Tall people can reach, otherwise stand up and slap the crease. Commiting but nowhere near 20.

    At the back of the little ledge/foothold there is an incut fingerhold. If that is broken it’ll be a lot harder.

    #8499 Reply
    Rhys James
    Member

    thats whats broken richard! and yeah, mark and the rest of our mates have done it before….. id agree with mark and say its a 21 now easily!

    #8500 Reply
    Ryan Doe
    Member

    Said hold is definatly gone, even searched the bottom of the crag for it.

    If you try finishing the climb up the original line it is most likely now a low 20, however if you top out only about 1- 1.5m to the left (this is actually more direct than the original) i believe it still maintains a grade of 17.

    Glad i wasn’t the one pulling on the hold when it broke!!!!

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