Jugular – Mt Frankland

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  • #8143 Reply
    Ross

      Looking for help on 2 queries:

      1. Has anyone done “Jugular” lately? How did you find the move past the 2nd bolt?

      2. It seems to mee that the climb “Thieves Like The Sun” trends left into the same finish as “Jugular”. This is not how it is shown in the Richardson guides, but the Richardson guide contradicts itself: the description says “trend left” but the topo line goes straight up, so which is it? The line trends left for 6 bolts and couple of trad placements, then joins Jugular at a bolt 3m under the overlap, then through overlap and one more bolt to top as per Jugular. Any comments? If this is not TLTS then what is it? It has the old petzl bashin expansion bolts.

      #8144 Reply
      Richard

        I’ve not done Jugular, but the topo line for Thieves Like the Sun looks accurate. As shown the top of Thieves like the sun is not an overlap but a bulge, with a shallow but wide crack/recess leading up to it (the toppo line is marked just right of the recess/crack , no doubt so as not to obscure it). This top section was naturally protected, one of the few places at Mt F where very large cams were useful. Jugular I think is well left of this (there’s a steep shallow gully between the two – visible on the topo)

        For a very fine climb try Three is the Key, just right of TLTS. I think it worth a star more than TLTS. Though where it says “a little run out”, substitute – fine face climbing with 15m ground fall – or it felt like it.

        #8145 Reply
        Ross

          Thanks Richard. I must have somehow seamlessly crossed between TLTS and Jugular, which means that they do come very closely together somewhere! I will highlight this linkup in the MF update miniguide as such. I am sure it had been done many times by now as it felt very “natural”.

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