Start at ground level about 10m right of route #43 and 20m left of Thruch’n The Bison. Follow a series of vertical cracks between ledges. Scramble up the 1m vertical crack, then diagonally right on jugs to a vague crack leading to a large stepped platform. Continue up the wider crack, placing some gear high in it before committing any further (crux). One or two small finger size SLCDs (i.e: BD Camalot C3#0 and C4#0.3) will come handy to protect the top out. Rope drag is manageable. Fragile rock around the top anchor. Might be done in 2 pitches to benefit from a spotter/belayer. Without protection high in the final crack, grade: 20X.

FA: Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne, June 2012.