A Small Deviancy
Boya Quarry, East Bay.
This is not a new climb. It is only a link between existing climbs. I’ve done it occasionally and this year it was suggested that it may be worth recording.
On the east-facing wall in Boya East-Bay are a number of excellent M&J climbs, starting with Infinite Justice (18), then a climb through the middle of the roof to the right of IJ, then at the right hand end of the roof is Enduring Freedom . I don’t know the name of the climb through the roof between IJ and EF. It’s probably in the new guide. The roof is strenuous and deters many. Which is a pity since the face above is quite good.
Start up IJ. At the fourth bolt traverse right just above the level of the roof to a bolt a metre or two above the middle of the roof. From there two more bolts to top-out just to the right of IJ’s finish. The traverse is thoughtful , especially if you have short legs.
It’s not a sports clip-up. A long sling is necessary on the bolt above the roof, to reduce rope-drag and to protect the traverse for the second. Also take a nut. Not to place, there is a fat bolt that accepts no bolt-plate. Slide the nut down the cable and press the loop around the hex head. (there was also a discussion regarding the big blocks just below the top, as to whether they’re sound or held in by mud, seemed ok to me).
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