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20 March 2012 at 5:40 PM #12448RichardGuest
A Small Deviancy
Boya Quarry, East Bay.
This is not a new climb. It is only a link between existing climbs. I’ve done it occasionally and this year it was suggested that it may be worth recording.
On the east-facing wall in Boya East-Bay are a number of excellent M&J climbs, starting with Infinite Justice (18), then a climb through the middle of the roof to the right of IJ, then at the right hand end of the roof is Enduring Freedom . I don’t know the name of the climb through the roof between IJ and EF. It’s probably in the new guide. The roof is strenuous and deters many. Which is a pity since the face above is quite good.
Start up IJ. At the fourth bolt traverse right just above the level of the roof to a bolt a metre or two above the middle of the roof. From there two more bolts to top-out just to the right of IJ’s finish. The traverse is thoughtful , especially if you have short legs.
It’s not a sports clip-up. A long sling is necessary on the bolt above the roof, to reduce rope-drag and to protect the traverse for the second. Also take a nut. Not to place, there is a fat bolt that accepts no bolt-plate. Slide the nut down the cable and press the loop around the hex head. (there was also a discussion regarding the big blocks just below the top, as to whether they’re sound or held in by mud, seemed ok to me).6 January 2013 at 9:37 PM #42040RichardGuest
Be nice if the web site required character recognition to put in an entry. Even typing “123” would probably get rid of most of them.13 February 2013 at 10:18 PM #54362HynekGuest
Pretty interesting linkup. Is the approximate grade 18 or much higher? The climb between IJ and EF, according to the guide book, is Five Minutes To Midnight (23).14 February 2013 at 7:37 AM #54451RichardGuest
Thanks for the top route id. Cross-over is tricky but not too hard, crux is at the top (on 5MTM). Keeping to the clear line through the top two bolts I’d give it 19. If you drift off the line left towards the arête maybe more 18. The thing to remember before leaving the ground is to prepare nuts for the fat bolt/s. I found the hardest move was staying on balance while trying to pull a nut down the cable with one hand.
also best to skip the bolt above the roof and place a 0.75 Camalot higher up.3 April 2013 at 12:22 PM #75651RonnieGuest
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