Home Forums First Ascents Long standing trad project ticked

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  • #2396 Reply
    Pat Turner
    Guest

    Hey all,

    well after just over a year of efforts Ive finally ticked my long standing trad project up at Kalbarri down near the amphitheatre, in a new area called ‘The Den’. (which is essentially the very steep wall underneath akira etc)

    The route is called ‘The Dragon’ and Ive given it 32. It is entirely on gear but has the convenience of loweroffs at the end of the route as it finishes on a ledge half way up the wall. All in all it is more or less a roof and is around 35 metres long. It takes gear from the Wild Country Z cams, right up to around size 3.5 WC or equivalent, but is predominantly cams. for the second crux and for the start you really should use the Z2 and Z1 otherwise there is minimal gear.

    the route itself starts at the right end of the big cave up sandy crap where you climb through a small rooflet till a good rail can be reached. Climb left along this rail for about fifteen metres till it runs out and the very difficult, very runout crux begins. after the crux continue across for about a metre than shoot straight up to a jug where good pro is found. a small lunge has you on two slopers and a jug in sights. traverse left from the jug with an abandoned birds nest in it, along a second but less difficult crux. at the end of the traverse, climb straight up towards the chains on jugs.

    So to sum up…

    ‘The Dragon’ is in the ‘Den’ ( new area which is the steep wall you cant miss down at the amphitheatre). It is a very steep, and very pumpy, 35metre 32 (ish) that is entirely on gear. the gear ranges from Wild Country Z1 right up to WC 3.5 or equivalent, and has loweroffs at the end of the route. Gear is great overall except at the main crux where it is a bit runout.

    Thats it… Enjoy

    Pat

    #2397 Reply
    John Knight
    Member

    Good to see someone making high rating routes in WA (and I thought you were great in Rock)!

    #2398 Reply
    Lee Skidmore
    Member

    Hey guys

    Congratulations Pat. I’m totally inspired by your ascent. Hope you don’t mind, but I cross-posted your announcement over on the qurank messageboard, as Queenslanders will love to hear about your hard trad climbing.

    http://p223.ezboard.com/fqueenslandclimbingdiscussion.showMessage?topicID=1109.topic

    Let me ask you, given that it was a long standing project, how long were you working on it for, and did you take any huge falls, or gear-ripping falls?

    I also notice you’re sponsored by WC, and give their gear a big plug in your description (I have no problem with this!). Do you reckon small aliens would do the trick where you used Z cams? Do you use aliens?

    All the best mate, and once again – congrats!

    Lee.

    PS: I would love to see some pics of the route!

    #2399 Reply
    Lee Skidmore
    Member

    Oops, I see you mentioned you worked on it for a year! Missed that.

    #2400 Reply
    Neil
    Member

    Nice work Pat.

    If you want another porject in the south west let me know… 🙂

    #2401 Reply
    Jamie
    Member

    hi to all the hard men ticking those 30+ climbs in western australia…

    Just had a look at the hard persons tick list on australian climbing (www.climbing.com.au) and there are no listed climbs of this calabre, you guys should let them know whats going on and put western australia on the climbing map.

    cheers and keep up the great work.

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