misuse of daisy chains

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  • This topic has 4 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by ed nepia.
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  • #8383 Reply
    kelly

      “I see it all the time. People at the cliff with one or two daisy chains girth hitched to their belay loop or tie-in points, and using them as a personal anchor system when at an anchor. Wrong. Dangerously wrong. Let’s be clear: You should NOT be using a daisy chain to anchor yourself to a belay.” Find out why at Black Diamond’s quality control lab at

      http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us

      #8384 Reply
      Scott B

        Using sling, daisy chain, rope vashe or something like Metolius PAS is all fine IMO to fix yourself to sport or trad anchors, so long as you obey SERENE; Secure (Solid), Equalised, Redundant, Effective, No Extension. The key is to ensure you don’t take a fall onto the anchorage system at all, whatever you use.

        Besides this, I would like to see test results of falls onto a dynamic rope used to anchor in. If you use the rope at the belay to fix yourself to the anchors, would say a metre of dynamic rope have significantly more ability to absorb the shock load of a possible fall onto anchors than slings/daisy chain?

        #8385 Reply
        kelly

          The more interesting point was further down in the article, with regard to clipping in short. If you incorrectly clip in short to a daisy, it can be potentially bad. VERY BAD(see video)

          #8386 Reply
          Mark.K

            There’s a similar video on the DMM website which shows the effect of dropping a 80kg weight onto a 80cm dyneema sling.

            Test results too.

            #8387 Reply
            ed nepia

              daisy chains are very often misused as described, and all though sling snapping incidents very rarely happen it would be smart to think of better ways of connecting to anchors

              my personal preference is use the rope wherever possible, it will add some dynamic quality to your belay

              also connecting your anchors together with cord or rope adds a tad more dynamics then using slings to equalise everything

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