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MT CHUDALUP
See previous postings by Matt Rosser for additional route information.
Mt Chudalup, with its semi-wilderness setting in the D’Entrecasteaux National Park, is a uniquely Western Australian location to climb. A beautiful place, far from crowds and the aesthetic attrocities of the city.
Here one can totter up clean open granite slabs, while the mournfull inflections of cuckoo’s rise from the karri forest above the distant rumble of the Southern Ocean.
The mount itself rises modestly above a sea of heathlands, swamps and islands of karri forest. To the west lies Doggerup Dunes, to the south east the great granite hump of Chatham Island & to east the Mt’s Frankland and Roe. It is quite unique to be climbing at a granite crag above old growth karri forest in plain view of the Southern Ocean.
If visiting Mt Chudalup to climb, please excercise subtlety and great care for the surrounding environment. Camping is not allowed, a pleasant low key caravan park at nearby Windy Harbour is probaly the best option.
From the carpark, near the shelter with rainwater and free gas BBQ, the assorted slabs of the ‘west face’ can be seen. Three Rosser / Truscott lines exist here. The ‘south face’ can be reached by sidling quietly around the base of the slabs for a further 100m.
SOUTH FACE
Largest, unbroken face at Mt Chudalup with deceptive angles and superb moderate friction climbing, although routes are generally steep to start, the angle rapidly eases off after 20-30m. Directly below this section of cliff is a large mossy slab / boulder clearing amongst the surrounding karri forest, which makes for great viewing and general enjoyment of the surroundings.
Routes described from left to right. The three new routes described here are all equipped with SS glue-in hex heads. All routes will require at least 9 bolt plates, bolts readily accept 45 or 90 degree plates. It is also worth noting that more obtrusive forms of fixed protection are neither needed or accepted here. A concealed, central rap station may be established at a later date.
** Pirates of the Chudalup 70m 18
A beautiful left trending line in superb position at the western end of the south face. 12-15m up, a steep step runs along this end of the face, start at the right hand side of this, the first bolt can be seen about 6m up.
(i) 40m 18 Straight up delicate slab past two BRs. Trend L with two more BRs over tricky bulge (crux), angle begins to ease & so do bolts. Follow spaced BRs to DBB in small scoop on skyline. 9 BRs to DBB
(ii) 30m 6 An easy pad, past two well spaced BR, up blunt prow of superb, clean rock in very scenic position. Belay of large boulders & perched flakes, admire ‘bogan rock-art’ in small cave on final 50m scramble to summit.
G. Firth, L. Sharp, B. Dennis, M. Doig 15 Oct 2006
An easy, but pleasant introductory Rosser / Truscott slab route (34m, 14?) starts approx 10m right of POTC, just right of mossy streak. The route trends left up centre of slab, with strange dogleg in bolts. 10 closely spaced BRs to DBB (carrots).
** Igneous is Bliss 55m 16
Balancy and sustained at grade, great moderate slab route. Start 8m R of previous, a distinct mossy runnel will be 3m R and small marri sapling just behind.
(i) 35m 16 Delicately up to first BR at 5m, straight up slab past two BRs then trend R along narrow ramp feature past four spaced BRs to DBB on large scoop next to clump of ‘resurrection’ bush. Excellent views. An ancient, rusty ‘Cassin’ bolt (origin unknown?) can be found just below BB. 7BRs to DBB
(ii) 20m 6 Easy, unprotected scramble straight up from scoop to boulder belay directly above. A rap station may be installed here at a later date to service south face routes.
B. Dennis, M. Doig, G. Firth, L. Sharp 14 Oct 2006
Fear of Sharts 52m 17
Nice direct line straight up slab to same belay as IIB, difficult balancy start, then easier climbing on slab ‘jugs’. Start 10m R of IIB in front of small she-oak.
(i) 32m 17 Gingerly up steep slab past two BRs (crux) to third BR & easier ground. Continue straight over steeper step above and onto same DBB as IIB. 7BRs to DBB.
(ii) 20m 6 As for second pitch of IIB.
G. Firth, L. Sharp, B. Dennis, M. Doig 14 Oct 2006
Some 10m right or FOS, in front of medium sized karri, is the steep and mossy Rosser / Truscott route, Blood in the Balance (22).
We have put together a pdf guide to the area that lists around 20 lines. However it does not contain Brett’s lines above.
If you would like a copy then leave an email address and I will send it through.
Hey Matt. I have the Trio guide for you to look over but your email bounced. do you have a new address? can you email me it? emilatwmi.net.au
G’day Matt,
I wouldn’t mind a copy of the Mt Chudalup PDF Guide if possible.
Cheers
poetic discriptions… but.
we’ve been specifically asked NOT to climb Mt Chudalup by the Noongars in that area and throughout the SW. It’s sacred ground to them, women’s burial places etc.
Please, think about the impact your actions have on the WHOLE climbing community before you climb there. We’re already struggling enough to get CALM to take us seriously and realise climbers are not cowboys/grrls without this kind of stuff.
Hi to all,
With regard to Mt Chudalup, RP Poet is right, the area is a Noongyar sacred site and climbers have been specifically asked not to climb there. This was apparently gazetted a few years ago in a management plan for the area which was commissioned by CALM, now the Dept for Conservation and the Environment. CAWA does not have this document and we will try and get a copy. CAWA has received an email from the Dept officer in the area asking for the route descriptions to be taken down. We have also been asked what exact actions we will be taking concerning this area. As you are all aware, CAWA has no power to make anybody do anything. The Department however does.
For those who don’t understand sacred sites, I’ll try and explain my own personal experience. I have lived and worked on Aboriginal land in the Pilbara. I have climbed on Aboriginal land in the Kimberleys and also at Ninghan Station near Paynes Find. If you think about it all of Australia was Aboriginal land. As I understand it, sacred sites are not so much sacred, (everything is sacred), but are areas set aside for particular purposes for some sections of the community, such as initiation ceremonies, burials and the like. I guess you can say these areas are purposefully sacred. This means that an area will be prohibited to some groups, men or women, or uninitiated people, depending on the gender the area is set aside for and its purpose. Generally if a person is not allowed in an area, they are not allowed to even look at it when passing by. For instance when I have been travelling to an area I was allowed to go to to climb there were places I had to not look at while going there. Sometimes there are times of the year when an area is set aside and its ok for the rest of the year. I have been given permission to climb in areas as long as I asked before going in so as to find out if there was at the time places I couldn’t go. At Mt Singleton we could climb anywhere except the boy’s initiation cave where we men could go and look at the rock art, but women could not. Unfortunately Mt Singleton is now closed to us for Western reasons, namely liability fears. The Aboriginal people were actually very reasonable to work with. Their insurance brokers were not. At Yandeyarra there were areas I couldn’t go but women could but there were areas the female teachers couldn’t even look at when flying in. Similarly there were areas closed to men. When I have asked I have generally been given pretty much free rein as long as I respected and stayed away from those areas prohibited to me.
Australia is not the only place where these considerations apply. For instance Devil’s Tower in the US is closed to climbers for part of the year for ceremonial purposes but open for the rest of the year.
I’m well aware that some climbers will find these restrictions galling, but ignoring them can result in closure of climbing areas that actually wouldn’t need to be closed, just to keep people at a distance from the areas of real significance. This has happened elsewhere and those areas then become extremely hard to get back. Think about it.
Cheers to all,
Toc.
i wonder what the dirty drunken druids have to say about all this….
To ban an Aboriginal from a pub is racist and illegal. To ban me from a area of crown land because i am not aboriginal is not racist?!?
Confused
The response to the establishing of these routes is quite interesting and raises many more issues than just those of climbers accessing one particular site.
As one involved, I would like state my case and views on the issue of Mt Chudalup. At the outset, the establishment of these routes was done with greatest consideration to the environment, a large amount of thought and with no intention of offending indigenous parties.
Mt Chudalup, while in a largely intact natural area, has a sealed road close by, a large new carpark and associated infrastructure and a conspicous fire observation tower located on the northern portion of the mount. Furthermore, a well made trail encourages people to climb to the top and has done so for many years. Then, what is it about climbers that is so different? Really, it is just a slightly more exciting variation of approaching the top. I understand the fixed protection may be the issue, I also realise that the recently constructed carpark, existing firetower and sealed road are just ununusual natural features to be appreciated and in no way alter the spirit of the site!!
I have seen many postive and negative sides to aboriginal land ownership and sacred sites throughout the country. While indigenous people have a longer and arguably deeper spiritual connection with the land, it is wrong to assume that anybody actually ever ‘owns’ the land or that aboriginal people were a benign hunter gatherer race that had little impact on the Australian continent.
Land management is and will always be a complex and contentious issue, in the South West further exacerbated by fragmented ecosytems, a ravenous natural resources industry, high population growth and unique natural systems characterised by high endemism and fragile ecological interactions. No government or private agency will ever be perfect or sate all demands however, as many will know, the reality of bureaucratic bungling, high powered hypothesizing and political posturing will rarely equate with or be beneficial to what happens on the ground.
Values and opinions change, peoples hurts eventually heel, however if I have offended or damaged the natural spirit of the place, then for that I express remorse.
To put things in context however, I believe that a handful of steel bolts and the soft pad of the occasional slab climber fade into obscurity when contrasted with the heady days of the eighties and nineties when CALM then masqueraded broadacre clearfelling, woodchipping and monoculture establishment as ‘forest management’ and ‘science’!
Stand on the summit of Mt Chudalup and look roughly east over the lower Gardner catchment. The keen eye will note a jagged, un-natural forest skyline and areas of conspicous even canopy where straight rowed 10-30 year old ‘plantations’ now grow where recently some of our most magnificent old growth karri forest once stood. Walk 100m off Cheasapeake Rd in this area and you will find a forest block known as Gardner 8. Here, in 1998, trees on a par with the gigantic E. regnans of Tasmania’s rapidly declining old growth, were felled and left to rot in a spiteful case of government sanctioned environmental vandalism. Trees so big, that the fallen giants still lay partly embedded in the mud where machinery could not move them after clearfelling. Stumps over 17m around and hollow bases so large a small tribe could comfortably shelter. Maybe the phrases ‘cultural and natural values’ are recent additions to the terminology of Western Australian government offices!!
Bruce… crown land? banned from the pub?
Noongar people are simply asking you respect certain places as sacred to their culture and community – RP says women’s burial ground, that’s quite different to a pub which is commercial and public. Its more like showing respect in churches, mosques or graveyards.
There are lots of other places you can go.
(I don’t know anything about Mt Chudalup, the climbing there or the sacred sites there.)
stuff-ups in the past are no excuse for stuff-ups now.
a better question is do the routes add anything of significance to WA climbing to be “worth” the hassle and potential negative impact on the sport as a whole.
i would suggest not.
and; despite the request from CALM to remove the route descriptions i think it should be left up.
The story relayed to me by a dirty drunken druid is as follows. The traditional owner issue has been promoted by a certain disaffected person. The real concern is not a few climbers but the industrial use of the site by a commercial abseil operator. This was placing unwelcome strain on the new CALM infrastructure…….Enormous bolt anchors would proliferate. Toilets would fill. Bins would need emptying etc and what of the liability issues?
Someone went out on a limb and commercial abseiling was stopped. Things escalated, bluffs were called. Complaints went to higher non druids. Parliamentarians were phoned. The traditional owner issue suddenly appeared and assisted in justifying a ban that had no legal foundation or the resources to police. People sympathetic to traditional owner concerns were cynically manipulated into policing a ban the state would not resource.
I understand the argument that commercial abseil operators should pay and be regulated. Many climbers have seen what has happened around Cowaramup Bay where angle grinders and ridiculously oversized bolts have been used to great effect. However even given this the druids think that the ends does not justify the means and misrepresenting traditional owners is wrong.
In support of the druids insights it seems incongruous that CALM’s very generous signage makes no mention whatsoever of the sites importance to the traditional owners. Further I can’t find the site on the heritage registry. However, the recently built car park, toilets, barbecue facilities and gazebos and tracks that guide walkers to the summit are real.
Climbers who without any economic link have managed to use the area in a low impact way. To date all bolting is the very low visibility carrot type technology and remains virtually invisible to all non climbers. No more than a handful of climbers visit the area annually. Many thousands walk the trail.
To my mind self censorship is a naive response to a fight that has nothing to do with climbers. Not publishing the guide has been a knee jerk reaction that does nothing but add weight to a cynical myth and probably does more to ensure the question surrounding commercial abseil operators remains unaddressed by the state.
Interesting comment by Matt and it looks like history could be repeating itself. Does anyone rememebr the Wallcliffe access campaign 10 years ago? I do as I coordinated it. The local bush tour operator had a falling out with some climbers and decided that climbers do not fit into the scheme of things. She convinced the MR council to pass a motion to ban climbing. When we attended a site meeting, all sorts of reasons were given for banning: among them vegetation desctruction, graffitti, and the good old “aboriginal sacred site”. We investigated and there hey presto, there was no sacred site, in fact no management plan whatsoever, other than banning climbing, 99% of the trampling were done by tourists, including the tour company and no one seriously links grafitti and climbers (why is it all ground level then?) So we got a hearing and the local council law was thrown out by the Parliamentary Committee which oversees such things and the bush tour operator lost. Climbing continues.
If Matt is right and this is not listed on the internet as a “restricted access” aboriginal site (easy to check), then this reason is bunk. Same as it was for Llama Rock when some of the old trad climbers tried that one on, after they discovered some new bolts there (I never bolted there but investigated this when I did the 2002 Perth guidebook, for obvious reasons.)
So please, everybody, do not take sacret site claims at face value, politics is a dirty thing.
The guiding document should be the applicable managamement plan (also on Web), and if there is an access problem, it is CAWA duty to seek that it is investigated. Why do not Matt or Brett join CAWA and then they can officially investigate the issue on its behalf? This is what CAWA is for – promoting climbing, and thus by extension helping people to promote climbing, see constitution. In my experience the best people to look after cliff access are the ones who use it.
Also, this web site would be well served by having a clear and visible list of any known access restrictions. Although ignorance is no excuse, it is often a reality.
And why I am at it, please use bolts without hangers in sensitive areas. When I bolted Avon Valley the ranger there was a bit worried about big bolts. When I showed him the size of the head on a hex bolt he just laughed.
It is hard to criticise bolts when they are one square centimeter; and there are roads, toilets and paths nearby. At any site visit it quickly makes the critics feel a bit silly.
Amen.
Hi all,
Just read Ross’s post. Only just before that I had been on the phone talking to the Department officer responsible for the area.
All claims or counterclaims aside. There is a management plan for the area, which CAWA, (or individual climbers), could have made submissions to, but we didn’t.The Department is bound to abide by that plan. They have to. There is an area of vegetation on Mt Chudalup which has to be protected. There is some significance to the local Noongar people of at least some of Mt Chudalup. It doesn’t have to be gazzetted as a sacred site for them to have input to the to the management plan. If the management plan says no climbing then that is what it says and its actually law. We can do something about this , but not by putting our heads in the sand. Unfortunately or otherwise the state is becoming more managed and if we want to preserve those areas we need to deal with each and every one of these management plans as they come up. We also have no choice but to deal realistically with the issues raised and we can only do this by getting organised ourselves. It may be as simple as installing rap anchors on some climbs so that climbers never go to the top. It may not be that simple. Some things may actually not be salvageable, but we have to be organised and pro-active so we know what’s going on and so we can do what ever can be done about it.
I’ll see you all at the AGM in January then. Get on board.
Cheers,
Toc.
Goodonya, Tocker! Yeah, we have to keep a lookout for these management plans as other special interests always try to sneak their stuff in (= barring OTHER people’s access), so we need input. Also, we need to keep in mind that most people think “climbing” is about bushbashing to the top….
Long live lover-offs, I would support these anywhere, any time. There’s enough ringbarked trees and erosion gullies. Money tight? => don’t bolt!
And on a different note, in case of XS spare time check out omanclimbing.com.
R
With the feeling that this issue is going to fade in the minds of anyone who cares.
I am keen to know what paths “we”(Yes Ross I am a member!)can take to clear up what can only be described as a “serious grey area”?.
We could bury our heads in the sand and right it off as being “not worth the hassle” or “there are plenty of other areas”. But as one of the parties involved, i strongly believe that this amazing area is well worth the hassle of actually challenging what is currently written down in a vault somewhere.
OK Toc, when’s the AGM, how do i get an invite and where are the important phone numbers???.
Hi George,
and everybody else,
The AGM is set for the 15th of February at Rosie O’Grady’s in their upstairs area. Memberships can be taken on the night as can be nominations for the committee. Even if you can’t be on committee, I would suggest that the whole climbing community start finding out how to get input into these processes, because they are not going to go away. To those who want to say we (the management committee) should already know, I absolutely agree but DEC have no information booklet that says “This is what we are going to do you but here’s is how to stop us” and we all including everyone reading this have jobs or/and studies while DEC staff are paid full-time to make up all these regulations. Its what they do, while we just want to go climbing.
The alternative to learning how to deal with it is losing our rights.
Cheers,
Toc.