Mount Roe – Another chapter in the Dangerous Book for Boya Boys

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    Jim Truscott

      Get your flat bellies up these three routes as rockclimbing takes over as the new golf

      *Dojo 25m 21

      A place you go to practice being the best person you can be. Start about 35 metres up from the end of the ramp on top of two small blocks. 7BR to DBB. Steeper than it looks but there are intermittent good holds and edges. Climb gingerly up right to FB then straight up on small edges and high steps with much friction work. Delicate move over the horizontal break, particularly if your heart is pumping. Steep fractioning up the final runnel. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Dec 07

      **Smiles, Scars and Tears 30m 21

      This route is a real ball tearer. Start at the base of the overhung crack just up from the end of the ramp. 6BR to DBB. Climb strongly up placing a1½ and then a 2½ Friend in the crack. Climb further up the crack again into the runnel with strong moves to clip the FB in the vertical runnel. Rock into the runnel with string moves. Surprisingly good friction in the runnel to gain the third bolt. Rising right traverse across the slab and wall above with really pleasant friction work. M. Rosser 27 Dec 07

      Crossing the Rubicon 30m 19

      A dance of seduction and rejection. 5BR to DBB. (1) 7m 15. Start at the very end of the ramp. Hand and foot traverse right and surmount the large flake to belay on a BR and large Friends. Ignore the bolt below which is for the ground up ascent to come.

      (2) 20m 19. Delicately up, smearing most of the way. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 28 Dec 07

      #5953 Reply
      Matt Rosser

        Updated Mt Roe Guide here

        http://www.savefile.com/files/1290739

        #5954 Reply
        Brett Dennis

          Which ramp to find these routes Jim, northern or southern?

          Is the updated Mt Roe guide available elsewhere, could’nt open it through the listed address.

          Thanks.

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        Reply To: Mount Roe – Another chapter in the Dangerous Book for Boya Boys
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