Home Forums First Ascents Mountain Quarry – 2 new routes

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  • #7097 Reply
    a Wombat
    Guest

    Two new routes:

    Aerobics with Alan (15)

    Bolted line Right of Penthouse. Up past 6 bolts to loweroff. Very nice climbing for the grade. Although, to be honest we have no idea what the grade really is.

    Mortal Wombat (20)

    A new line between Sylvia and Land of the Orange Druggie. Up past 7 bolts to loweroff. Despite how it may look…. The climb offers varied and entertaining climbing and is well worth a look for a Perth climb.

    #7098 Reply
    shane shaw
    Member

    well done Wombat. What bolts did you use on the climb ?

    #7099 Reply
    Owen
    Member

    Yeah cheers Neil, I quite enjoyed mortal wombat.

    PS my phone got pinched so i’ve lost your number and couldn’t call you about sunday. We’ll be out at the quarry til the arvo if you happen to read this. sorry aboot that

    #7100 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    climbed mortal wombat , nice route cheers thought it grade 19 max tho. nice moves sustained … maybe its 20 if you go straight up at 2nd bolt but it seemed logical to step L onto the big ledges

    give it a star

    #7101 Reply
    Neil
    Member

    Mortal Wombat grade – agreed. Going left makes it easier. Stay on the silver rock and go left and up past the thirds bolt for full value as done on the FA. But these things are a bit academic anyways. Just as long as we are having fun !

    #7102 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    shane the bolts are gimb and double ring bolt anchor

    tidy!

    #7103 Reply
    shane shaw
    Member

    thanks ed. Going to have a play on them both on Sunday afternoon. 2pm mate if you are interested in popping out

    #7104 Reply
    Richard W
    Member

    Nice one Neil and Co! As previously mentioned have plenty of RE500, some HY150 and a little Ramset if needed for re-bolting. Look forward to climbing the lines when I’m back.

    #7105 Reply
    George
    Member

    hey guys

    If anyone has the time, the loweroff above Razzle dazzle and the 16 on the corner aparently needs replacing. I’ll get to it if i find some time, but otherwise it needs to be added to the “to do” list.

    #7106 Reply
    Richard W
    Member

    Cool George,

    The replacement anchor by the way needs to stay where the exsisting anchor is for both routes otherwise you will lose the need to do the last move on razzle. P.S Nick & myself are currently out of bolts. Only have 2 GIMBs’ left if SCWA have any available.

    #7107 Reply
    Neil
    Member

    i think adding a new loweroff dedicated to the 16 would be good.

    le’expansion or le’glueins. who wants what ?

    #7108 Reply
    George
    Member

    In regards to p-bolts, i have just purchased around 25. Im more than happy to supply these for the loweroffs on the route/s in question. So I don’t know when you are around(RW), but ill have to get them to you before wed, as im flying out for 3 weeks.

    BTW i actually bought this new batch with my own coin , as the SCWA kitty is bare. So it would be great if you guys can start trying to encourage folks to contribute( maybe a cheeky note or two from the weekend climbing community!).

    Another idea was to get people to nominate a climb that gets a fair amount of traffic and chuck in the $15 it would cost too put 2 stainless steel twist shackles. I am going to put in an order soon and it would be great to see these added to take the heat of current anchors. It seems like a good idea, but it all depends on peoples pockets?.

    g

    #7109 Reply
    Kate S.
    Member

    Think money would be better spent on bolts for rebolting rather than twist-shackle anchors. Twist-shackle bolts are not cheap and no ring-bolt anchors need to be replaced from wear for as far as I know.

    People should be TR’ing through their own draws anyway, not the anchors.

    I like your idea though, get people to nominate a route they’d like to see rebolted and get them to donate towards it.

    What do you think?

    #7110 Reply
    Richard W
    Member

    George – not back until next Thursday, so the best thing would be pass them on to Nick. I’ll text you his number. Have the donation tins been put back in all the climbing gyms?

    #7111 Reply
    Richard W
    Member

    Hey Kate – what are your thoughts for an anchor for Razzle? If you put them on the main face at the top you may remove the need to do that last move. Keen to do some photography this next break if any images are needed for upcomming guide.

    #7112 Reply
    Neil
    Member

    does anyone do razzle ?

    theres no point adding a new anchor if nobody does it.. or can’t do it because of broken holds.

    G – let me know if you need help with you know what before you leave. would be a shame for it to be dormant while you are away.

    #7113 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    i’ll happily donate ss trubolts w ring hangers for anchors if you ned at top of these routes?

    i am pretty keen to try razzle, have holds busted since the FA?

    the current anchor is complete shit and needs upgrading before someone gets hurt, you could replace it in the sameish place and it would service the 16 as well…

    #7114 Reply
    Kate S.
    Member

    Nick has bust off a few holds from Razzle Dazzle. Unfortunately the rock quality is not the best and I think this is why it didn’t get done for so long.

    I agree that the anchor needs to be replaced. I’d like to see it stay in roughly the same place, and I will be out there soon doing just that.

    #7115 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    thanks for that kate

    just as an aside for the rebolting crews.. the 16 is really nasty in its current state, the 1st bolt is way high and awkward to clip, and like the others are old carrots.. seems a shame that it isnt bolted to suit novice leaders with proper bolts and a first bolt thats lower (i understand a bulldozer maybe to blame for the height of the first?) basically its a very serious lead for those less experienced

    anyhow it would be great if there was another well bolted easy route there for novices who otherwise are limited to the sun blasted offerings beside playboy etc..

    i’ll happily donate the gear as i just dont have time to rebolt

    cheers

    #7116 Reply
    Shannon
    Member

    I have to agree to Ed, I climbed that 16 on the week end and I found it to be a decent climb and good for anyone leading at the grade, but the protection was crap, the carrots have been bashed in so hard that most are distorted and fairly difficult to slide hangers onto. If that was at about my limit I would shit myself. Some decent newbolts and if the first ascentionist does not mind, an extra bolt between the ground and the first would make that a good climb for beginners to progress on. Cheers Shannon

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