Home Forums First Ascents Mountain quarry new route

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  • #8006 Reply
    Emil
    Guest

    Far RHS of the City Limits wall (the first, often dirty wall on your left as you enter the quarry)

    Choad Warrior 15m 26

    Follow the obvious line of Fixe bolts past flake lines. Subtract one style point if you thrash up the arete to the anchors after the last bolt…

    Lower offs shared with Pat’s old project to the left though I will replace these as they suck a little.

    #8007 Reply
    Scott
    Member

    ‘Chaos’ should it be? Cool will have to try it Saturday.

    How’s the other one going? Last time I tried it, it had this annoying red tag on the first bolt. Very difficult getting a draw through there…

    #8008 Reply
    Scott
    Member

    Oh I see. Funny

    #8009 Reply
    Confused
    Member

    Mmm.. I don’t.

    #8010 Reply
    Scott
    Member

    Urban Dictionary – ‘Choad’

    #8011 Reply
    steve.k
    Member

    is it non chipped ?

    #8012 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    Finally….. I had a look at it years ago but it was beyond me. Funny it lasted that long given where it is…. Well done, very worthwhile if yer up to it….

    #8013 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Well done but chipped or non chipped? Did you step up to the wall or bring the wall down to you?

    #8014 Reply
    Quarryman
    Member

    It is in the quarry. It is lucky the wall did not come down on him…

    It does have some enhancements.

    #8015 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Init funny that when someone stuck artificial holds on the quarry rock they were scorned in general but ‘enhance’ a quarry face to make a few new holds and you seem to have a legitimate new route. Is there anyone putting up new lines that are not chipping?

    #8016 Reply
    bored
    Member

    who let the jeff out of his box………

    #8017 Reply
    Emil
    Member

    Anchor bolts replaced today.

    For Jeff, Steve et al – yes it is chipped, though originally not by me. I did make some enhancements myself, if only to make it climable. Quarry rock unfortunately doesnt really lend itself to harder routes, either being blank, poor quality or both. You’ll find just about every route in Mountain or Stathmas quarry over grade 24 will be chipped, drilled, comfortised or glue-reinforced to some extent.

    Have a go – I think you’ll find it a great route that is spot on for the terrain…

    #8018 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Emil I am not saying it will not be a worthwhile route, probably really nice, just my personal opinion that chipping and carrots (I have climbed nice climbs with both) should remain in the past.

    You “enhanced” the climb to make it climbable, are you saying that no one could have done it as it was? or you have made it just easy enough for you?

    maybe a redundant arguement seeing as chippers will continue to chip but I will continue to make it none the less.

    #8019 Reply
    owen
    Member

    yewww emil, choad bandit! good to see you’re still charging. hopefully i’ll catch you over summer if you’re around

    #8020 Reply
    Chipping is fer everyone
    Member

    S’funny that chipping only goes one way. If yer so hot and can do the climb so easily why not make it a little harder. Round off those sharp edges, fill in those liddle pockets. They were probably chipped anyway. Reverse chippin is the new black.

    #8021 Reply
    Richard
    Member

    looking forward to Jeff’s sucessful ascent of a reverse chipped and authentically restored Choad Warrior.

    #8022 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    I tell you what, you restore it to its origional condition and I will give it a go

    oh wait you can’t can you…

    #8023 Reply
    pete
    Member

    so jeff you’re a black and white man hey? we’ll put aside the fact that it’s a man-made, QUARRY hell-hole for now.

    Would you prefer to walk into the quarry and only have a handfull of 17s and a whole swathe of blank faces? Do you protest because you think that one day, maybe someone will pad their way up those crumbling and mirror-like cliffs?

    No sweet-pea? No urban ethics? No star-wars? No chips and dips? You are a prefect man in an imperfect world jeff… Maybe you have such steely ethics that you dont climb these routes anyway.

    #8024 Reply
    Definition
    Member

    Quarry : very Big chip

    #8025 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    What would happen if I was a person not able or comfortable to push myself up the high grades, however there is a lack of well bolted low grade routes, would it be acceptable if I went to any of the “man made, Quarry hell holes” around Perth (or anywhere else in WA) and provided it not interfere with any other routes I can chip, drill and make the rock to submit to my will and put up a nice big, juggy ladder that suits me to a T. Maybe some one with more ability could climb it in a year or ten or never but now we’ll never know eh?

    It is good that people are out putting up new routes, this one has been chipped to a 26, what if someone around here could have climbed as it was first chipped at 30ish? or someone else got to it before emil and chipped it to a 20ish?

    My ethics are that I do not chip, quarry or not, we do not have much rock over here and I feel people should climb harder not make the rock easier.

    #8026 Reply
    2 cents
    Member

    Why cant everyone just get along. Sit around the campfire. Sing some songs that kind of thing =p haha i doubt it

    #8027 Reply
    Mark
    Member

    Jeff, I and many others would encourage you to get out to a quarry and manufacture and bolt a nice grade 20 or lower, if you have the time and energy to do it. It would create a great climb which I’m sure many would enjoy.

    The thing is Jeff, climbing in WA quarries is a unique experience and the ethics associated with climbing and developing new routes in them are far from black and white. Every climbing area has its own set of ethics which you personally may not agree with, however as a new route developer as long as you respect those ethics and the histroy of the area I see no problem with chipping to create a climb that challenges you and hopefully those that climb it in the future. It is not about the grade it is about the experience you get from bolting a climb, climbing it then seeing others have a go as well.

    I personnaly have no issues with chipping in the quarries, I do have an issue with chipping naturally formed rock. This is my ethical view. Correct? Who knows and does anyone really care what my ethical stand point is, probably not. But I believe as long as I, and others respect the ethics that over time have been formed for an area we are as close as possible to climbing nivarna…

    #8028 Reply
    steve k
    Member

    chippings shit ! does anyone know if Cranial Void 27 is manufactured ? looks like a sick route.

    #8029 Reply
    chris
    Member

    fraid so steve. there are lots of awesome chipped routes. better than a lot of blank faces. free your mind

    #8030 Reply
    chris
    Member

    wow, as a climber who has spent a lot of time over east and os i cant believe that this discussion is actually still going on. lets add it to the day light saving argument and bring wa even further into the dark ages. quite amusing! get over it guys, its a quarry. have many of you even done the route? i have and its quite good. jeff, i will give you a catch on it, if you can find your boots under the egotistical mound of dust gathering on your old, unused but ethical gear…

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