Home Forums First Ascents Mountain quarry new route

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  • #8031 Reply
    Jeff M

    Egotistical? probably

    Ethical? you bet

    gear unused? Sorry mate it gets used all the time, probably more than most peoples and though some of it is old, a lot of it is new and shiny(ish) too.

    #8032 Reply

    Anyone mind if we took one more layer off all the walls and chipped some new routes? I am bored with the old ones. Will head out at some stage for E’s route though.

    #8033 Reply
    josh n

    look mate chipping is weak, if you cant get up it wait for someone who can or simply just train harder.

    #8034 Reply

    Josh et al,

    The quary was one massive chip. Free for all i say. It is a quarry so who gives a rats? No chipping / gluing on natural rock though.


    #8035 Reply
    Jeff M

    Wow and another chipped route up skywalker wall too, you guys are amazing, I really hope the higher chipped holds do not affect the traverse under the roof

    #8036 Reply

    yes, saw that from a distance. Thought they’d just removed loose flakes for a colourful effect. Bit blatent if it’s chipping. Awful lot of hangers.

    #8037 Reply
    CAWA geezer

    HUMPH chipped hard routes HURRR too many bolts BRRAHH back in my day WURRR kids these days HURRAW where did I leave my hexes DURRAH not enough carrots I say BRRAPP when i were younger i would have shown these chippers a thing or two RASM SNASM Mumble mramsnss….

    #8038 Reply
    steve k

    its a quarry – one massive chip, free for all eh. sweet – wheres that can of spraypaint ? might do some grafitti. just think of untouched walls i could access with a rope ;( and who gives a rats arse eh :/ ? um ? we do !

    #8039 Reply

    Steve K,

    You have your opinion I have mine.

    Enjoy climbing unchipped routes somewhere

    #8040 Reply

    I once asked a manager at DEC about chipping in DEC-managed quarries, pointing out that these are ‘artificial’ rockfaces. Their reply was…

    “Conservation and Land Management Regulations 2002

    35A. Quarrying, removing or disturbing soil etc.

    (1) A person must not, without lawful authority, disturb or remove leaf mould, rotting vegetation, humus, soil, stone or gravel on or in CALM land. Penalty: $2 000.

    37. Damage to property

    (1) A person must not, without lawful authority —

    (a) post, stick, stamp, stencil or otherwise affix any notice, handbill, placard, advertisement, paper or other document on or to any thing or structure that is part of the landscape or property on CALM land; or

    (b) write, draw or paint on or deface any thing or structure that is part of the landscape or property on CALM land. Penalty: $500.”

    So, it’s a $500 or $2,000 fine for chipping at MQ, depending on what they feel like.

    #8041 Reply

    Sounds like a fine for bolting too.

    #8042 Reply

    Yes, for bolting too. DEC said that technically speaking, formal written permission is required to bolt on DEC managed land, but that provided the bolts are put in correctly and ‘appropriately’ (minimal visual impact; with regard to cultural, historical, environmental etc etc sensitivities; and local requirements as set by the area manager) they are happy to turn a blind eye to bolting.

    #8043 Reply
    ed nepia

    thanks for the legalise Philip, but whats the point of pointing that out?

    Are you suggesting that folks get fined for chipping or bolting in the quarrys?

    #8044 Reply

    Is cranial void chipped?? Was that a joke post??

    If the quarry’s werent chipped we would all be lining up to climb on that steep goat track playboy…

    It should be noted that Emil replaced the hold that broke from Cranial Void after discussing the way the climb used to be with some of those that had climbed it previously. The route hadnt had an ascent since the hold had broken (numerous years)… The route has seen regular traffic since and thanks to Emil it is now enjoyed as it was when it was first ‘augmented’ with a glue on.

    At least we have some people willing to get out there and add to the WA climbing environment, developing (and rebolting old routes..) new climbs. (eg. I think Emil was the one who put a lower bolt on Hang Ten to make it safer for the rest of us).

    Happy to see discussion but would prefer those like me who simply leech off others routes and hard work be constructive rather than just dish out an ‘anonymous’ diatribe of ethics on what not to do?

    Whilst not a black and white subject we must not let bureaucracy go crazy and a certain amount of artistic licence needs to be used….its a quarry…Good job Emil.

    PS Phillip wtf??

    #8045 Reply

    Some people, such as Kris have the opinion that “The quary was one massive chip. Free for all i say. It is a quarry so who gives a rats?”

    Well, DEC does.

    People can of course hold whatever opinion they like, but since DEC takes the view that chipping in national parks and DEC mananged land is illegal, their opinions don’t really mean much.

    All this ranting and raving between the pro- and anti-chippers seems a bit pointless to me.

    #8046 Reply

    I am in disbelief that this crap thread is still going!!!!!.

    You guys arguing the toss over too chip or not too chip SERIOUSLY need too get out more.(yes that definately includes you Jeff!!).

    I have been on CW and think it is a well thought out route and is a great addition to the quarry.End of story!!

    Why the insessant chest puffing and brain baffling.WTF!!!. We all are well aware of DEC’s point of view and to that matter Jeff’s as well. Nobody gives a toss. Have a play and enjoy.


    #8047 Reply

    Thanks for keeping the thread going, George. Threads don’t have to be meaningful, just slightly more interesting than work. BTW d’you know anything about the new route on Skywalker wall?

    #8048 Reply

    I know a bit about the route on Skywalker as I recently bolted it.

    I have been looking at the line for a while now as it looks like a powerful line up the main face with a great finish up premature evacuation.

    Skywalker has changed considerably now that the block has dropped out and I cleaned it and pried the 2 flakes off under the roof. When I chipped it I was very mindful of not adding to Skywalker (hence why there is no bolt in the roof as this can be protected naturally). I personally don’t think any of chipped crimps towards the top of the lower wall add anything or lower the grade of Skywalker because:

    1. They will be too low to use as feet and are of no use as hands on the route

    2. They are drilled in and if you have climbed on drilled in holds you will know this does not really give anything for the feet.

    3. There are heaps of better foot holds in the general area that are naturally occuring now the flakes have been removed.

    However if I have inadventantly ditracted from skywalker in any way I will reinstate it with crushed quarry rock and aredilte.

    The number of hangers is always hard when bolting a new route especially when you manufacturing it as there are no natural breaks / stances to put the clip. However it was bolted to ensure:

    1. you get enough protection to ensure you don’t deck / hit the side wall at the start of star wars.

    2. Get a bit of exposure running it out through the crux.

    3. can use the bolts to work it

    As for the climb it is still a closed project and no grade has been confirmed.

    If you have any question or comments come and talk to me in person as I would much rather put a face to the name. I climb at Rockface on Tue/Thur and try to get out on the weekends.

    #8049 Reply

    The hangers are a good advertisement for low visibility glue-in hex-heads. Though at >25 probably unavoidable. If the anti-chippers are sincere they’ll erase the route. Otherwise it’s all alright then. All you need is a gruff voice.

    #8050 Reply

    bahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahaha, why don’t all those anti chipping, anti glue on, anti bolts go sell their gear and buy golf clubs. at least then you will be as lame as your arguments. get out there, pull on or shut the hell up. there are a handful of guys in perth trying to push wa’s climbing and all you guys want to do is drag it down. good on the guys out there putting up new lines in what appears to be a very anti climbing state.

    #8051 Reply

    or a shrill one

    #8052 Reply

    Thats it mate. WA = Wait a while. Gee daylight savings woulda been nice this summer but we quickly got rid of that 2 didnt we. Chip away

    #8053 Reply

    chipping = daylight saving


    #8054 Reply
    Jeff M

    Lets see…

    George you say end of story, why? are you so all powerful that your word is law? and if no one gives a toss and you are in disbelief that the thread is still going why did you bother to add your 2 cents worth?

    Richard I generally won’t erase a climb because that would alter the rock too, though if a chipped route interferes with an existing route to the extent of making it easier I will.

    Chris I am not anti climbing, in fact I love it and I can turn a blind eye here and there for the odd enhancement, but if I wanted to see a gym climb I would go to a gym.

    and Mark, If you can put your finger(s) in a drilled or chipped hold, you can get friction for your toe if not put your toe in it. Also how are the ‘better footholds’ naturally occuring if they were created by you removing flakes?

    Anyhoo, have a great weekend

    #8055 Reply

    hi jeff

    i am out at work at the moment, but when i get back we should go for a drive around the perth crags and you can show me all the classic routes that are totally natural. i will pick you up, we can drive around the block then i will drop you off cause i don’t think there would be any point driving any further. catch ya in the gym.

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