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  • #8056 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    It has all been said before so I will not repeat the chipping arguments. But Mark mentions that he would mix quarry rock with araldite to repair any excesses: this is not necessary. At Bunnings you can buy a “glue stick” which consists of 2 parts of epoxy. One part is in the core, the other one is in the outer. You simply rip off a bit of the stick and hand-knead the two parts together then hand-stick it wherever as a filler. It is very simple and almost no mess, the glue stick comes in a range of colours to match the rock. So repairs are easy. I have used it to plug up some old carrot holes at Churchman’s a few years ago.

    #8057 Reply
    MArk
    Member

    Thanks for that Ross. Did you end up making an ascent of SW last week?

    #8058 Reply
    George
    Member

    Jeff, Firstly no my word is certainly not law!, but it definitely has some actions and effort standing behind it!!!.

    Its pretty easy to be a bottom feeder with lots of unhelpful hot air, than a greatful one who adds value to the climbing community. The reason i add my 2 cents worth is because i find it funny that people like your self take such moral high grounds on topics that are so rare and unique.

    ” I can turn a blind eye here and there for the odd ENHANCEMENT”,

    “but ‘ENHANCE’ a quarry face to make a few new holds and you SEEM to have a legitimate new route”

    I thought you could turn a blind eye?!!!!

    Ethical: you bet??

    high ground or low ground???not sure i understand where your coming from.Its either accepted or not, there is no option to sit on the fence and crap on whichever side suits you at the time!!. But as you said it is probably just a redundant argument anyway!.

    Peace

    g

    #8059 Reply
    Jeff m
    Member

    Sorry George maybe this bottom feeder did not explain his point of view simply enough for you. Straight up I do not like the way these new drilled, chipped, glued, ergonomic and finger friendly routes seem to be popping up all over the place. Have a look at Skywalker wall, that new route is ugly as hell, possibly the worst chipping I have seen since gracetown, fully manufactured and possibly interfering with an existing classic. I think this sort of outdoor gym climb is just wrong. I do say I can turn a blind eye as though I do not agree with it older classic lines such as Urban ethics and such have slightly enhanced holds here or there (not great but doesn’t stand out like dogs balls). You guys may say it is a quarry and man made but the rock is not, it is rock. You can call me all the names you want but my opinion is what it is. and chris yes the drive would only be around a small block as most of the quarries are close together. We could go look at climbs such as city limits, playboy, penthouse,split personality, mullup, sylvia, barren awakenings, the force, vader, skywalker, powerplay, and plenty more…and thats only the first quarry.

    Love Jeff

    #8060 Reply
    PLEASE
    Member

    PLEASE! PLEASE webmaster close this thread!

    #8061 Reply
    Finish it
    Member

    Okay i am all for conversation and debate. But hasnt everyones point been made. Chip or not. Its your choice. Now lets talk about something else please =)

    #8062 Reply
    Kris
    Member

    C’mon climbers! Lets keep chipping away at this thread…..we have a long way to go before we beat the record thread “Carrots”

    Mint

    #8063 Reply
    Peace and Love
    Member

    We attack Jeff not so much because he’s a purist, but for his infuriatingly sarcastic tone. George on the other hand tries hard to stand firmly on both sides of the fence which results in some entertaining syntax.

    The key is Phillips point way above. That what we do, bolting chipping chopping, has very little legal standing. The way things are is determined by individual initiative. Words are political tools to get people to do what we want them to do at no cost to ourselves. If chipped climbs are not removed then they are accepted. The people that have had a powerful influence on the way things are right now are the ones who’ve done something. Whether you agree with them or not George and Woodman have changed the nature of many badly decayed routes and brought a new consumer-friendly standard to quarry climbing. Their one weakness seems to be they want people to like them. The glue-in hexhead crowd has fought back with excellent soundly bolted lines, maintaining the credibility and popularity of this style of bolting. Whoever removed the last bashin carrot line stopped the steady production of bashin classics (though there are still lines going up, but you won’t read about them here). In their time the bashin climbers expanded Perth climbing amazingly. Establishing vast numbers of high quality routes. All change is the result of action. Threads like this are a great way to practice creative writing.

    #8064 Reply
    Darren
    Member

    Jeff I would like to climb something over grade 22 but thanks for pointing out some of the more natural lines.. I’ll let grandma know which ones aren’t manufactured..

    #8065 Reply
    Were-Rabbit
    Member

    Bounce… Bounce… Bounce… Ahhhhhh… Carrots! Yum!

    #8066 Reply
    George
    Member

    I love these historic sub-groups of First ascentionists /Bolters/aficionados….whatever!. That certain members of the climbing fraternity are always banging on about. “Glued in Hex head crew” and “Bashin Legends” sounding more like mixed netball teams, than cheapskate rap-bolting bashers!:)(thats not a real dig at rap-bolting,as i fall in that catagory….just not a cheapskate!!).

    “credibility and popularity of this style of bolting” , CLASSIC!. This probably should have finished with…..amongst the all conquering mixed netball team of “the GIMB lovers”.

    “bashin classics”Isnt that a oximoron?!

    and” Establishing vast numbers of high quality routes”…OK credit where credit is due, but seriously!. I admire the drive and effort, but not the bolting.

    We could probably introduce another netball team right now “the basher sect”. They definately dont bolt and are trying to be more on the purist end of the scale, but they have this romantic infatuation with the art of bashin one in and its likeness to ye oldie days of the mighty piton(the tradmans bolt!!).

    AS for creating a consumer friendly crag. I like to think of it more in terms of giving people the option to climb routes with the same quality of bolts the all conquering FA had(admittedly much better in this cas!). Instead of putting old bolting practices on a pedestal and whispering in hushed tones about how dicey the bolts on said route are and how it “has” BECOME a reputation route.

    I can only really put it down to Contrived adventure. these routes really arent bold in the true sense and there reputations are only in their Western Australian lunch boxes……but hey gotta love a bit of bolt banta!!!!!.

    peace ……and love

    G

    #8067 Reply
    P&L
    Member

    To start with a mixed netball team is a great place to meet toned women. Secondly this thread’s standard of writing is deteriorating into moralising soap opera. George is becoming incomprehensible again. Through sweat and effort he’s had a huge impact on local quarry climbing. But he’s still obsessed with what people think. Does he want us to vote for him or what.

    And that rabbit, maybe it can be helpful in pruning some routes. Technical question: How doyou get out glue in hex heads? Pees are easy. Even embedded ones. Just hammer them round till they snap or the glue fails. Bashins are very hard, and glue-in hexes it seems, have to be cut. The only pull-out tests I heard about involved a steel cable and a 4×4. That was a sandstone area and all it found was that the rock broke before the glue. Cutting takes several minutes. So what’s the easy method? Maybe a custom made flogging spanner.

    Lots and lots of peaceful passive-aggressive love !!!!!

    #8068 Reply
    Logan
    Member

    Awsome thread! At least it shows Perth has a very passionate climbers willing to squabble over the little we have. I am so bored at work right now :)I got on CW the other day and i couldnt climb it the way i could see it was designed to be climbed (due to reach)but i could still find ways to do all the moves and it was a fun worthwhile route. It was definetely set better (for me) than cranial as i cant do a few moves on that due to balancy reaches. Maybe next route set could have a few foot jibs to help the short in stature? Could they be green? I like that colour.

    Emil, nice work, if you want to rebolt properly Space Monkey then go ahead. Its an awsome route that cleaned up would get some traffic. Fair bit harder than CW (2-3 grades. Unfortunately that wall (not city limits) was bolted by some impressionable 15-16? year olds who thought that climbs had to be scary runout to be a test piece. Did i mention they hadnt bolted much if anything before? Anyway SM is a sick route for those that wish to discover it.

    Anyway i am off to climb something natural outside of the quarry!

    #8069 Reply
    George
    Member

    I would agree that my alter ego “Eugene” definately raised his rather incomprehensible head again……a little bit too much passion perhaps :-).

    As for wanting votes and friends!?, not real sure what your on about, just calling it how i see it. Maybe i need a bit of anonymous posters therapy!?:).

    As for getting out GIMBs:not real hard, same as carrots. appropriate socket with large bar attachment and twist away.

    As for pulling out pees, they might be easy if they are sticking out and not recessed(just put large socket bar through and twist). But comparing a well recessed P and a GIMB, the P is miles harder, without a doubt. especially if the GIMB has not been chisel edged at the end. Thread definately adds strength in an outward pull, but is still easy to twist out.

    #8070 Reply
    Peter T
    Member

    I haven’t contributed to this thread yet, and I think I ought to as it’s been going on so long. So here goes….. hi to anyone that knows me!

    Peter

    #8071 Reply
    Dinah
    Member

    I haven’t contributed either and I can see it’s welly good fun so hi Peter T!! Whatapity Were Rabbit hasn’t got run over by a truck or infested by one of those human concocted bunny genocide virus’s.

    #8072 Reply
    Emil
    Member

    Consensus is that CW is probably 27. If anyone strenuously objects to that grade, please come have a chat or post here…

    #8073 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    well actually i always found 27 quite strenuous …

    #8074 Reply
    STFU
    Member

    So much whining, so little climbing. STFU and go climb a rock ya whinging freakin babies. (Jeff or God as he qould like to think)

    #8075 Reply
    jobro
    Member

    yo

    sorry to wake a sleeping giant, but I only just saw this thread 🙂

    don’t care to get into the chipping debate, but I was just a bit confused about the dealio with the missing hold on Cranial Void….Goyder said it hadn’t been climbed w out the hold, but I watched Tim Djerkins (barely 16 at the time) climb that route back in 2004….had the hold been ripped off at that point? I can’t remember? anyone know? I’m just curious….

    #8076 Reply
    Richard W
    Member

    Latest info is that myself and Nick cleaned it up a little using a chisel to clear away some loose crap and for what I remember there is some little edges near the top that make it doable without the glue on hold. Nick redpointed it a couple of years ago! Is that how you remember it Nick?

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