Mt Trio new routes

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  • #4690 Reply
    Emil and Mark

      Since our last post on Mt Trio in March we have put in a considerable amount of time and effort for 5 more bolted routes at Trio. This is what we have done so far. We will publish a mini-guide of our and others’ bolted routes at Trio as soon as we can drag a photographer along….

      Mt Trio main face lower.

      Approach by scrambling down gully on RHS of crag or 2 30m raps from the top. Climbs described L-R.

      ONE TRICK PONY 30m 24

      Start 4m R of vegetated corner thing. Up line of Fixe bolts to lower offs at 30m. Take a #4 camalot if you are short and/or timid and a couple of smaller (#.5-#1 camalot)cams for the top.

      FA Emil May 06

      SIDESHOW EDDIE 30m 25

      3m R of OTP. Stick-clip first bolt and batman past crumbly rock. Take a couple of cams (#.5-#1 camalot) for the top. Traverse to the lower-offs about FTBM. Bouldery, sustained and excellent rock.

      FA Emil August 06

      FUELLING THE BEER MONSTER 30m 22

      5m R of SE. Up rings. Lower off. Drink beer.

      FA Mark March 06

      The line of carrot bolts to the R of FTBM is Carpe Diem 60m 21 (Rosser + Truscott)

      Upper face – Approach by rapping (30m) from double rings on far climbers R of top of crag. Down a little step in small alcove. Rap down to L rings for Ringmaster or R rings for CC or BL. You can do 2 raps down these rings to get to the bottom of the crag.

      Upper tier climbs described L to R

      RINGMASTER 30m 21

      From leftmost double rings head up rings through steepening terrain. Take gear if you’re keen but you wont really need it. Belay off ring and carrot at top.

      FA Mark August 06

      CIRCUS CIRCUS 30m 21

      From R double rings head straight up. Bit of gear at the start. Gets steep quick. Shares last bolt with BL. Belay off top rap rings.

      FA Emil May 06

      BEARDED LADY 30m 23

      From R double rings head up and slightly R. Bit of gear at the start. Pack your aggots cause it’s way steep and exposed. Has been lead but requires 3 more bolts (pending) so take care. Belay off rap rings. Shares the last bolt with CC.

      FA Emil August 06

      Trio has scope for at least 3 more routes on the main face and about 4-6 routes on the smaller east face. Feel free to add to these routes. Let us know and we will include them in our guide. E

      #4691 Reply
      Matt Rosser

        This is a fine area with easy access and steep, solid rock. I am only surprised it has taken so long to receive sports climbing attention. I look forward to the guide and getting down and sampling the new routes.

        Good effort.

        Is BL and CC through the very steep concaved section?

        #4692 Reply
        Emil

          Cheers, yep its a cool crag for sure, though im not sure i’d be calling most of them “sport routes”. “Sporty routes” maybe ha ha.

          Yep, RM, CC and BL go through the overhung section to the L of your other route there. BL is way steep….

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