Home › Forums › Climbing Talk › My idea to boost support, long but hope you will wade through it.
Apologees in advance for this being long winded, but it’s a matter close to my heart and now that I’m up in Perth I thought I’d raise the point as I saw some other interest in the Forums….
Being used to the Rock Gym’s in the US and working at my Uni’s wall (which had a big social/community aspect to it, one thing I miss about there) all through my studying days I’m a bit sad at the gyms I find here, even in a major city like Perth. I’m not sure if WA(Perth) doesn’t enjoy the same support for gyms as I’m used to or not. I understand that the majority of you would rather be out hanging off of the real stuff and I can’t argue with you. I myself love boulder so gyms are a good solution.
There seems to be a general discontent with the local gyms here as far as updating routes, cleaning holds, etc. etc. etc.
When I was working at the wall at my Uni, we had an Annual Boulder Comp, nothing major, maybe a couple hundred bucks worth of prizes from sponsors (rope was the big prize, maybe a harness or some quickdraws etc) The added benefit of this was that a group of staff and the regular climbers got together, stripped all the holds off the walls, cleaned them and then set new routes for the comp. Over the course of the year other routes filled in around these to fill in the walls. My gym wasn’t as large as some of these warehouse ones but I think the same could be done here with CAWA support even if it was just on a partial section of the gym. Over the course of a week and after hours we manage to clear the walls completely and then clean the holds, and usually the day before the comp with the help of some of the better regular climbers, outside of regular hours we set the new routes and ran the comp over the next day. Was great fun and who doesn’t like setting routes, are being that evil SOB that throws the mean crimp or sloper (pick your poison) into the crux.
Maybe something like this should be organized at one of the gyms as I’m sure that we could scrounge the support on here and from the gym. I think it would be a good idea if CAWA would try and sponsor something similar like a boulder comp. Not only does this get everyone together and new people involved it also pressures the gyms to keep things fresh which can’t hurt them. Best of all it’s volunteer and doesn’t cost anything, you can even charge 10 bucks or something for entry into the comp to cover door prizes, a BBQ etc. Willing to bet that we could get some support from local shops as well, not sure how easy it is to get support from the big ones like MainPeak or Mountain Designs.
Just my 2 cents, but I’d love to see this happen.
For a fix check out my old local spot at home
http://www.merockgym.com/inside.html
or my Uni’s (pity they used to have a webcam and more photo’s up)
http://www.umaine.edu/campusrecreation/programs/mainebound/mainebound_climbingwall.html
Would be pretty sweet. Hope we get some positive replies. WA needs more comps.
Me too. Hell, I’m happy to organize it if there is support to do it and support from people in contact with the gyms, I’ve only been up here for a couple of months and have only been to the Hangout, once. Will hopefully start climbing at Rockface on my lunchbreaks as I’m just in Leederville for work.
Comps were great social times, and a bit of healthy competion for everyone from beginners to the veterans.
Your idea will work Zach.
As a NZer who was thinking of moving over to Perth in Nov, I am starting to have second thoughts about the move after reading some of the posts about the three gyms.
Sounds as if Perth is dead on the climbing front?!?!?!
Everyone here in Auckland and climb’s is part of a big family, we all know each other and climb together etc etc. Also we just had the exact thing you are talking about Zach, a boulder series (note no words of competition as some people “dont like to compete”). We have had one round last friday and still two to go in Oct/Nov. Its a great night out with problems from V0 to V8-9, something for everyone to have fun on and win some spot prizes.
There used to be comps, and quite a sense of community. That has dwindled the past couple of years. Not sure why! I think its commitment by the gyms to organise the comps and the lack of volunteers to help out. I am sure with an influx of keen people the sense of community will return. There are plenty of us who frequent the gyms and climb on weekends. While the roped climbing in perth is not so exciting, the bouldering is pretty darn good. Just got to get out there. places like Pipelines, Millars, Mt COok, and a few other satelite areas are worth frequenting and great places to boulder grades between v0 and v9. Millars has about 100 problems with Pipelines at about 70, Mt cook though low on numbers is awesome in quality 30-40 problems there. At all these there are some world class lines thrown in!! Yes WORLD CLASS. So dont worry to much about the lack of spirit in the gyms, if you want to generate communtiy get folk out of the gyms and on the stone, No one wants to talk about how cool that boulder problem was on the bouldering wall at the Hangout. But everyonei s psyched when they find a project outdoors. Thats where its at. So get ya mates, searh online for the guides, hell i think theres a couple on here (CAWA), and get out there. Then come into the gym and regail everyone of the great weekend you had on the stone!! ENJOY
But that’s the thing. I love being able to go outdoors and do it but it’s just not as easy to organize, along with it doesn’t offer the flexability and convenience for a lot of people.
Don’t get me wrong I’m not knocking getting out and doign it, that just wasn’t my intention of this thread. But on the same token, not everyone wants to organize a day trip somewhere, weather can be an issue, you can’t exactly tape up routes outside, and some people may not have a crash pad / shoes etc. I’m not looking out for the hardcore that already have a steady climbing partner/group. I’m trying to look out for those of us that still love climbing but are a bit more casual about it. And at the same time get a bit of interest back into the gyms rather than just avoid the issue of making the as good as they could be.
The gyms are there and from the sounds of it just need a little bit of a helping hand to get a sense of community back into them. It can be a very daunting thing being a climber and walking into a new gym not knowing the regulars, that’s why CAWA is great but not everyone knows about it, which is why things like a boulder series is good to get everyone in and helping out.
On a side not I’m busting out of work at about 1pm today for the long weekend and will head over to Rockface to have a look as I haven’t climbed there before, I’ll probably be a bit disappointed in myself as it’s been a fair few monthes since I’ve climbed inside or out.
Zach,
yeah i hear what ya saying dude. But what your after goes hand in hand with what i said (kinda). Given that perth’s influx of climbers is low, its hard to maintain a sense of community based soley on the gym scence. Regardless of the events people will inevitably become bored with it and the gym will become routine. I do hope you manage to generate some life back into the gyms, but without having the outdoor component it will fall back into complaicency within a year or less. SO by all means, generate comps, but at the same time, start an email train up and let people know of a weekend plan. Regardless of weather you can always plan to go out, and if you make it out occasionally, the spirit within the climbing community will burn that bit longer. I understand the constraints that exist to get outdoors, but they are not so hard to overcome.
Dont be daunted by comeing into a new gym and getting to kwo the locals, climbing folk are pretty approachable. ANd what ever your climbing level, most of us are psyched to watch anyone pushing their own limits.
Enjoy your afternoon at the rockface…
Fair enough. Having not really been to the gyms here I can’t comment yet on the way they’re run. That was the beauty of my gym at Uni, we ran an outdoor bouldering trip every month, as well as roped climbs, as well as probably every 6 monthes or so had a multiday climb/trek/camp trip. It was the gym though that sourced as the base of operations for everything, and it may just be a failing on the owners/operators here that something similar isn’t done. As far as I know Aus has some pretty outstanding climbing in the world scene. We just need to make something of it.
Maybe I’m just enjoying my daydream of running a gym instead of sitting in my engineering cubicle. 🙂 🙂
For those chomping at the bit to help with comps (good onya :> ) – go on to the West Australian climbing blog by Ross Weiter (the link is on the CAWA home page). In the piece about the September CAWA committee meeting there is a call for volunteers to help with a competition, complete with contact number. The owner of that number will probably be on a climbing trip this long weekend but you can always leave a message.
I’m happy to donate a carton or two of beer as a runner up prize 😉
For the Over 18’s ofcourse 🙂
Nice string, gents I am trying to scope out if there is a support for a “climbing event” for the winter of 09. The idea is to have fun and a great day. I personally don’t care who is strongest, and hate the idea of isolations and standard comps. Mainly I need volunteers and if I can build up a team of 5+ people it will happen. My current idea is to have several fun events including bouldering, a speed climbing comp (racing against a clock up a long grade 15 that anyone can do), milk crate climbing comp (!), a climbing fashion show and a pro DJ with some cool music. But I am an old fart and need some young people to help me out with ideas so call me on 0422 927962. So if you have any skills or are just keen then let me know, any ideas are welcome as I really just have just the sketchiest idea at this point. ciao.
YEAH !!!!!!!!!!!!!
ME N TRAVIS IS KEEN TA GET INVOLVED N THAT !!!!!!
😀
ME DAD USTA DO MOTORBIKE TRIALS OVER LOGS N ROCKS N CREEKS N STUFF < AN I WAS THINKIN WE COOD HAVE A BOULDERIN COMP 4 MOTORBIKES N THAT !!!!!!!!!
😀
U LIKEY ????????????????? !!!!!!!!!!!
What the… is that sort of gramma and language, Brett? If your going to communicate an idea, at least make sense. I know this is just a climbing forum, but for crying out loud, speak english not some low class, shit sounding short hand!
>> If your going to communicate an idea…
ITZ SBELLT ‘ YOU’RE ‘ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
U DUMB#SS !!!!!!!!!!
😀
ME N TRAVIS IS GUNNA BE BRINGIN TH MIGHTY XR250 !!!!!!!!!!!!!
RRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA !!!!!!!!!!!
😀
very funny kids now please put your dummies back in and climb back into your cots.. its late and you need your sleep
Right I feel justified to put my five cents in to this post having organsied and been involved in quite a few comps WA and otherwise. For a start Perth is TO SMALL climbing wise to have regular (more than once a year comps per discipline) and anyone who thinks otherwise is deluded.
Secondly the Gyms do not have the setter support to organise comps that well ( and please do not suggest everyone can help with that, if that happens you run out of participants).
Thirdly the last lead comp that was ran saw most of the climbers that would of made it a challenge sitting watching the comp or going outdoors after sticking their head in to say hi (which I fully support as it real climbing after al). Also comp seters in this pathetic little town get shot down. Having set for three days straight with Gerad for the last state comp and receiving mostly criticism from people who thought the routes were “too hard” ( get over it folks they were only in the 27 range in the STATE COMP) I would be less inclined to do it again.
Basically comps have killed themselves in Perth. Try getting sponsorship, and thats coming from one of the 2 people that organised one of the more successful comps in the last few years. You will be lucky to get a rope of some of the stores these days as they won’t support and event that sees 10 low level climbers fall off a route then complain it was set to hard.
To get comps going again you need to make sure people will enter. Otherwise they will fail and make the situation worse (sponsors don’t like low turn outs). You need experienced route setters who are then left alone to recover on the comp day and you need to really sweet talk the companies that are likely to sponsor you for prizes.
In all I fully support any attempt to get the WA climbing community to get together for something and will help, just leave the F***ing egos behind, enter the damn comps and just enjoy them. In the end there are only half a dozen people(if that) in WA at a standard that matters anyway. The rest of us are average and really should not care anyways.
Have fun all
Let the Flame begin I suppose………
Edd, thanks for the, uh, support… I think? Constructive criticism appreciated, though I feel the need to point out a few things. My intent was for a bouldering comp, although as Al pointed out earlier, maybe “comp” was a bad name. Would be looking to get a variety of skill levels in so more social but still with a competition feel, too competitive and you run out of upper level climbers that would come and lower ones get scared away, too social and it’d just be a gym crash. And the comment of “In the end there are only half a dozen people (if that) in WA at a standard that matters anyway” is a bit sad isn’t it, considering you said people should leave their egos behind. It’s a comp, so competition by name. But the good thing about having all levels participate is that low level climbers can get good beta from more advanced climbers. As far as sponsors, I’d be happy to get a couple quick-draws let alone a rope thrown in. I’ll leave it up to Ross for the moment as it sounds he’s got a better start on it than I do, and frankly I don’t have the time to organize something though I’m all for helping out right now. You’ve got some good arguments but I think the majority of them are jaded and unhelpful, sorry, just my two cents. Mostly because I think you’re line of thinking was some sort of state wide comp for glory and bragging rights and my idea is more of a social comp get everyone in to climb and meet, win some prizes thing. I couldn’t care less who the best climber in WA is, certainly isn’t me as I haven’t been on rock or in the gym for about 6 monthes, I’d be lucky to pull a V3 right now : ) I’ll keep feeling things out and maybe if I feel like really running a project or pushing something and have the time to dedicate to it properly I’ll try my end, if I fail miserably, meh so be it.
Hi everybody,
I’ve been a little bit involved in the comps over the last few years. Shane and Mike did the organising for the last one, the few before that I was involved enough to have to repeat units. It’s a learning process. We got rid of the isolation process for the top-rope comp keeping it only for the final. I’d like to do the same for the lead, but that’s a little trickier. They do have to be fun, so I’m hoping Ross’s ideas will come off. Bouldering comps were popular as they were fun, everybody could get into it. The outdoor bouldering comp Edd and Kate organised, (yes he’s that Edd), was an absolute blast. I hope they both know how much a lot of us appreciated the work that went into that.
The reality is, climbing comps only work if climbers want them. Stores will only sponsor them to any large extent if they generate exposure. The outdoor lead comps in ’96 and ’97 certainly did that but the work and cost that goes into them makes the work and cost of indoor comps insignificant.
So if you want it, get behind the people who are running it, at least enter. If the gyms run another bouldering comp, and you’re not fit, enter anyway, who cares.
Above all that, the rock is always there.
Cheers,
Toc.
Hi all,
Its good to hear that there are some people out there willing to help set up a competition/fun day.
I myself have been thinking about getting something organised, a bouldering event in a public space (councils permitting of course)to bring together the community and introduce new people to the sport.
Would be great to hear your thoughts on this.
Cheers.
Phill
Phil, that sounds like it could be good fun. What kind of set up are you thinking, ie. what would we be climbing. First thought that poped into my head was throwing up some portable walls in a park somewhere… Freo? Not sure what would be involved in getting an ok for something like this from the council, liability? I’m all for helping out anyone organizing things. We need to find someone willing to make big fake hollow boulders out of mesh and concrete, that would be awesome, could even give them to the gyms to use. There I go dreaming again. 🙂
I was thinking along the lines of either a park or on the beach somewhere like City Beach. Get a steel framework put together with ply for a bouldering series, easy and hard for beginners to try and pros to dominate. Perhaps someone already has something of the sort that can be used? I dont know. Routes can be changed throughout the afternoon as the comp goes on (would need the help of a good route setter), perhaps if the gyms get involved they could supply the holds for the event?
Not sure how easy it would be to create the actual boulders you are talking about but a good wall could work.
I love the idea of holding it on the beach, bit of BBQ action, some good music etc…beach would be busy with people anyways so im sure curiosity would bring in a few more people.
Try for some sponsorship, prizes etc. Good opportunity for gyms to get involved and up their memberships? Raising awareness etc, i have spoken to a few people that havent even heard of Urban Ascent and as a relatively new visitor to Perth i would never have found that place without help.
Again as has been said before, its all about getting people to actually show up and get involved both competing and promoting.
I am still getting a feel for the Climbing scene in Perth and appreciate that you do not have the greatest ammount of local outdoor climing on the door step but rockface is fairly busy and im sure there are others out there that would like the idea of an outdoor event somewhere.
Phillip,
Happy to donate my time and effort into putting things together and setting up if this gets off the ground. I think my CAWA membership has lapsed but Toc should still have my contact details. Judging by the trolls in the forums lately you’ll understand why I hesitate to put up emails and/or phone numbers on this. Would love to help route set, but I’d be delusional to think about it becuase I’m just too damn out of practice. Time to get off my bum and start going to rockface a couple days a week after work maybe.
Perhaps then we arrange for a brainstorm down at rockface one evening nextweek sometime, have a bit of a climb and discuss ideas etc, i will ask a few people and see if they are keen to come down and get involved.
Share some ideas, talk about whats been done before and what we would need to do to get something off the ground.
??