*** FUZZY BEAR (50m, 14)
Start 5m L of “Beginner’s Luck” and just R of tree, then up past 8 fixed hangers. A tricky smear to start, then a well featured face to smooth black slab. Few crux smears, then easily to top. Bring 3 cams around #1 camelot size for belay at the top overlap. Dena’s first first ascent. FA: Dena Rao, Ross Weiter, Apr 2010.
** HANGER HIGH! (25m, 16)
L of “Eagles’ Lair”. Climb past 6 fixed hangers to loweroff. Crux is the smooth slab half way up (isn’t it always….).FA: Ross Weiter, Dena Rao, Apr 2010.
Updates:
1. The old belay of “Beginners Luck” 2m R of FB is now replaced with two near-invisible carrots, a clone of the same thing in “Slab Talk” a further 2m R. You will see them when you step on them. It is better NOT to belay here as (a) the top can be reached in 50m and (b)if you do belay here, the 25m pitch 2 directly above has no gear so you are risking having the leader fall on your head from a great height….
2. “White Elephant” has 5 carrots, not 4. My counting has improved since 2002.
3. “Speeding Chickens” and nearby climbs now have a DBB with fixed hangers above the overlap, at 35m above ground. This is right next to bomber trad cracks and too high for a top rope so WTF?
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