New moderate climbs at Mtn & Stathams Quarries

This topic has 11 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 16 years, 9 months ago by Richard W.

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

Author

Posts
7 October 2007 at 12:00 AM #5869 Reply
Ross
Blah, Blah, Blah (18m, 16) FA: Ross Weiter, Danilo Zonta, 7 Oct 07

A useful moderate route at Stathams. Start 10m L of The Trumpeter (see guidebook) and 5m L of Twenty Easy Steps (see the 2002-4 miniguide) at the lowest point of the slab. 5 bolts to DBB, the crux is at the 2nd bolt.

There now are 3 new climbs in Mountain Quarry, all 30m R of Playboy/Penthouse, at the corner. No holds were made. FA: Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, 26 Aug 07. From L to R:

* Bumble Aye (12m, 16)

The slab. Directly up to 3rd bolt, then L, then traverse past 4th bolt from L to R, to large sloping handhold. 4 bolts to DBB.

Bumble Bee (12m, 17)

Some interesting face climbing moves, the last one is the crux! Have balance. 4 bolts to DBB.

Bumble Sea (11m, 11)

Bog on up the corner on large holds. 4 bolts to DBB.

Please do not set up top ropes off trees as this would loosen the dirt on top. Thanks.
8 October 2007 at 12:00 AM #5870 Reply
Nick
no new holds!

theres a pocket at the top of the middle route!

was 17 too hard?
8 October 2007 at 12:00 AM #5871 Reply
Ross
The pocket is natural, I cleaned out some crap out of it and lined it with glue as it was crumbly. Try “Rage(23)” at the back of Mtn Quarry (2002-04 miniguide), that should answer your other question.
8 October 2007 at 12:00 AM #5872 Reply
Richard
Hey Ross!

What about doing something about that first bolt? More people may have a go then.
8 October 2007 at 12:00 AM #5873 Reply
Ross
Yeah, we discussed that….I promise that I will have a look at it in summer when it is too hot elsewhere (since “Rage” is in the shade until midday). Until then I am enjoying other things….ones that which do not seep with water. Thanks for the reminder though.
8 October 2007 at 12:00 AM #5874 Reply
mike
think u hit a nerve there nick…
19 November 2007 at 12:00 AM #5875 Reply
Emil
Ross – tried Rage for the first time on sat…. awesomely devious start, not for the easily frustrated.

I did get a little concerned higher on the route, there is now quite a bit of teetering, loose rock and some of what you may have reinforced with glue looks like it would prefer to be on the ground. would you mind if i cleaned it up a bit? cheers E
19 November 2007 at 12:00 AM #5876 Reply
Ross
Emil – sure, clean it up. Yeah, the start….I got upset falling off it for a while, hence the name. Did you stick clip the first bolt? (that’s the idea) Richard W. does not like that and asked me to fix it, so I am keen on a 3rd opinion…
19 November 2007 at 12:00 AM #5877 Reply
Ross
I forgot, can you please make sure the cleaning does not increase the grade?….I would like to be able to do my own climbs….cheers.
19 November 2007 at 12:00 AM #5878 Reply
Emil
No worries. from the looks i dont think it will get *much* harder. yeah, we stick-clipped the 1st bolt, meh, i dont really care either way about that as i think a lower bolt would get in the way of the smear-fest.

i did feel however that the 3rd bolt could be moved right about a metre, as it is tucked left and would make the fall a little nasty. happy with whatever you decide. e
20 November 2007 at 12:00 AM #5879 Reply
MArk
In my opinion the 1st bolt should stay where it is. After crying like a baby at the start we stick clipped it and it is in a good posiition giving you that “i’m not going to kill myself here feeling”. a lower bolt would definately get in the way of the 12 moves you have to do to gain 2m of vertical. An EXCELLENT start to a route that will get more traffic with a bit of cleaning and agree with emil the 3rd bolt could be moved 1m to the right… Objections?
20 November 2007 at 12:00 AM #5880 Reply
Richard W
Consensus seems to be no change. Hence I retract my earlier comment and shall dust off my smearing shoes. Nothing like a bit of a challenge!
Author

Posts

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)