Home Forums First Ascents New route at Albany and West Cape Howe

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  • #129221 Reply
    Jonas
    Guest

    Here’s two potential new routes. They’re not in my guide book and couldn’t find any record of anyone climbing them before however you never know, they might be hiding somewhere in an old lost guide book.

    NATURAL BRIDGE AREA, ALBANY

    Sabretooth 13m 19*
    Start as for ‘Whalestooth’ then follow the twin parallel cracks branching right halfway up (the cracks above ‘Thinker Skinner’) and top out once you can reach the ledge. Nice lay-backing with an unsuspecting crux. Jonas Hollingworth – Apr 14

    THE OLD MAN, WEST CAPE HOWE

    Horizontal Refreshment 18m 21**
    From the belay ledge go up the inside corner and onto the face continuing to a short vertical crack at the top. Well protected with a few small wires and small to medium cams. Jonas Hollingworth and Trent Potts – Apr 14

    I thought the crux on HR was a grade 21 or 22, however I’m not exactly ‘Andre the Giant’ and reckon this move will be easier for someone taller (with more reach). I also thought it might be worth three stars however let me know how you go and what you think.

    #129578 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    Not Andre the giant but Andreas rolio climbed that about 4 years ago he called it 21 he complained about his reach but I thought he was pretty tall guess it’s just a hard move.great looking line and good to see it step out of the shadows .

    #130653 Reply
    jim nevin
    Guest

    As far as i know the line was never led and was still on andreas’ to do list before he left last year. jim

    #130683 Reply
    John boy
    Guest

    Oops .Sorry Jim as he described himself on the route I had just assumed he was on the sharp end as that was his style.my bad.

    #144008 Reply
    Gideon mettam
    Guest

    He was on the sharp end but gear was a lil sketchy at the start so he got pumped out, then he took a nice fall from some wet holds about 1/3 height, didn’t have time to do it clean after that. Just topped out n left it for another day. Which never came. As far as I know

    #144011 Reply
    Gideon mettam
    Guest

    The one you called sabre tooth I did about 3 yrs ago, called it the big C. my fault i never said anything so u can claim it. Fun climb thou

    #144055 Reply
    Ross
    Guest

    May I suggest that if people do a new route and never say anything at the time then do not say anything now either? As a rule of thumb… I know there are sometimes good reasons to keep mouth shut but a couple of times over the last 20yrs I have done a new climb myself and then someone said “oh yeah, me and mate have done it two years ago and never bothered to write it up… as in…. ho, ho, so chilled….”. It feels pretty crap, lemme tell you. So I recon publish or keep quiet (unless there is a bloody good reason).

    #144588 Reply
    Gideon mettam
    Guest

    Fair enough,
    I notice uve been putting a good bit of effort into new routes n letting public know there there so good on yay. Didn’t mean to be a ass but see how it could come across that way.

    #148312 Reply
    Jonas
    Guest

    That’s all cool. No great injustice but it’s probably best to put in an early claim rather than wait until after somebody else does. What did you think of the grade?

    #148314 Reply
    Gideon
    Guest

    Yeh I thought 19 or 20 for Sabretooth

    #148500 Reply
    Chris
    Guest

    We did Horizontal Refreshment on the weekend. I think it is a 22. The start is gnarly!

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