Home Forums First Ascents New route at Bobs and Wily's

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  • #126383 Reply

    A couple of routes down south.

    Bobs Hollow

    The Scream 13m 21*.
    Start right of ‘Spatular Man’ on the ledge 3m above however belay from the ground. Stay left of the bolts. Some reachy moves and hold searching required (5RB to DBB). Jonas Hollingworth and Oliver Morell- Jan 14

    The rock on this climb is quite sharp however should become more finger friendly with increased traffic. Feel free to comment on the grade.


    Pilot Suicide 28m 16
    Start as for ‘Hope’ and after a few metres traverse right for 3m, then up and over small roof, then a flake and then a crack which climbers sometimes use when off-course on ‘Hope’. Committing slabby moves at the top under a fold in the rock. Jonas Hollingworth – Mar 14

    As far as I could tell this route had not been done or at least recorded however it is in an obvious position.

    #126900 Reply

    Yep Pilot Suicide is an obvious line and is in fact Glory, which didn’t make it into the WA Rock guide but is in the 96 SW Rock guide. The recorded first ascent in that guide was Messiah Dec 92 and it was given grade 14 which seems fair as it it comparable to Hope. There is also a direct start called Glory Direct that goes ground up into the line rather than starting on Hope, this goes at 21 (again in the SW Rock guide) :-).

    #126921 Reply

    Thanks Jonas and Olly that new line at Bob’s is a pearler! I reckon 21 is a fair grade.

    #127178 Reply

    Yeh, I thought that might be a possibility for the route at Wily’s although I searched the forum and guide books but obviously I don’t have the right guide books. Its a shame cos I like the name, haha. A grade 14 hey, I reckon a grade 14 climber might find the top bit a bit hairy!

    #127346 Reply

    Yeah depends on whether you go direct but many sneak left a bit to make it easier 🙂

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