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  • #110092 Reply

    New route on The Black Wall at MQ is as follows-

    Hustler 22m 20**
    Start 2m left of ‘Penthouse’ on a small white triangle painted on the rock and go straight up the corner onto a blank-looking slab. Climb the first 2 slabs staying left of the bolts then up the right side of slab 3 and traverse left with hands across the top. Move further around the side and up, with a reachy move to finish. 8 RB to DBB. Don’t drop on the heads of climbers on ‘Playboy’. Alternate finish – from the last RB head right and finish at the top of ‘Penthouse’. J. Hollingworth and O. Morell – Aug 13

    I reckon it’s potentially a grade 21 but it’s hard to gauge because of my intimate involvement. I’m keen to hear other opinions of the route, please let me know what you think?


    #110325 Reply

    Hi Jonas,

    nice climb! Did it yesterday afternoon.

    As for the grade… I think it depends on how far you go right on the third slab part. Probably only a 19 or so if you go right to the right, but at least 21 if not more if you stay on the face.

    I’d say it’s the best climb on that wall!


    #110591 Reply

    Hey Phillip,

    I actually thought the crux was on the 2nd slab. I might add that you can probably reach the slab on ‘Playboy’ in that spot but I avoided it. Think I finally worked out how to post a photo, thanks to Mark and Mark.

    Cheers Jonas

    Hustler, Mountain Quarry

    #110592 Reply


    #111964 Reply

    A really good climb. Went up it tonight, though I did hangdog a couple times. Lots of delicate footwork involved. It felt like a 21 to me. It would take a far better climber than I, to go straight up the face of that third slab.

    #112250 Reply

    Almost got this onsight today. Felt like a 20 to me (went right on 3rd slab, prob 22ish if you stayed on face… Not much for the feet out there). Could go a soft 21 if you take the potential nasty falls into account.
    My $0.02

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