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New route on The Black Wall at MQ is as follows-
Hustler 22m 20**
Start 2m left of ‘Penthouse’ on a small white triangle painted on the rock and go straight up the corner onto a blank-looking slab. Climb the first 2 slabs staying left of the bolts then up the right side of slab 3 and traverse left with hands across the top. Move further around the side and up, with a reachy move to finish. 8 RB to DBB. Don’t drop on the heads of climbers on ‘Playboy’. Alternate finish – from the last RB head right and finish at the top of ‘Penthouse’. J. Hollingworth and O. Morell – Aug 13I reckon it’s potentially a grade 21 but it’s hard to gauge because of my intimate involvement. I’m keen to hear other opinions of the route, please let me know what you think?
New-MQ-route-web.jpg
Hi Jonas,
nice climb! Did it yesterday afternoon.
As for the grade… I think it depends on how far you go right on the third slab part. Probably only a 19 or so if you go right to the right, but at least 21 if not more if you stay on the face.
I’d say it’s the best climb on that wall!
Phillip
Hey Phillip,
I actually thought the crux was on the 2nd slab. I might add that you can probably reach the slab on ‘Playboy’ in that spot but I avoided it. Think I finally worked out how to post a photo, thanks to Mark and Mark.
Cheers Jonas
A really good climb. Went up it tonight, though I did hangdog a couple times. Lots of delicate footwork involved. It felt like a 21 to me. It would take a far better climber than I, to go straight up the face of that third slab.
Almost got this onsight today. Felt like a 20 to me (went right on 3rd slab, prob 22ish if you stayed on face… Not much for the feet out there). Could go a soft 21 if you take the potential nasty falls into account.
My $0.02
🙂
